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WTN: A close shave, etc.

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Patchen Markell

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WTN: A close shave, etc.

by Patchen Markell » Sun Jun 12, 2016 10:38 pm

Tonight: Château Léoville-Poyferré 1995 St.-Julien. Dusty tannins bordering on musty raised an eyebrow on opening, so we decided to set it aside and open another bottle (see below), but thank the quercus gods, after an hour and a half this was decidedly not corked: intense cassis and tart cherry fruit, layers of earth, slightly meaty, a little graphite, very long and intense with still fairly grippy tannins, but with the concentration to hold it in balance; not closed but still a lot of tannin to resolve, so I'll be in no hurry to open the other bottle. Very good with the potential to be excellent.

Château de Chantegrive 2010 Graves. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot. Rich, plummy and cherry, ripe but not exactly lush, solid acidity and structure, some toasty oak but not overwhelming. Tasty, too-young, and with surprising depth for a wine at this price point (on sale for $19.99). This will improve for several years.

Domaine du Roquefort 2014 VdP des Bouches du Rhône. A blend of Clairette and Vermentino. Nicely balanced, crisp, lively, lemony, characterful white, opened to cook with (in the pot and in the chef) and proves to be great value at $13.50.

Over the last several days: Broc Cellars 2014 Santa Barbara County Cabernet Franc. Vibrant medium-ruby color, varietally transparent Cab Franc, of which the only give-away of its Californian origin is a zip (in the Barnett Newman sense) of intense, ripe blackberry liquor running through the austere, pencilly background. I don't know that this has the stuffing to age for long but it's very nice now.

Az. Agr. Monteraponi 2013 Chianti Classico. Initially seems a little thin in the glass, tart cherry, herbs, but nothing special; but with air it takes on considerable weight, expressing a lot of dark fruit as well as minerality, and proves to be one of the more interesting Chiantis we've had in a long time (this was purchased as part of an attempt to find some promising labels we haven't tried, since in Chianti we tend to stick with a handful of familiar and serviceable makers like Castellare, Volpaia, Coltibuono). Very successful.

Cowhorn 2014 Applegate Valley, Oregon "Spiral 36". Viognier, Roussane, Marsanne. Terrific stuff; I tend to shy away from new world white Rhônes for fear of flab but this is very much in balance, even vibrant, behind the expected richness, and at $25.00 it strikes me as very reasonably priced. I don't remember where I read about Cowhorn; maybe it was here, but in any case this is an auspicious first bottle.
cheers, Patchen
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: A close shave, etc.

by David M. Bueker » Mon Jun 13, 2016 12:47 am

The long wait for the 1995s continues. Every once in a while I taste one that gives the promise of a better future. Too often that future is cloudy or so far off as to be irrelevant.
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Patchen Markell

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Re: WTN: A close shave, etc.

by Patchen Markell » Mon Jun 13, 2016 7:49 am

"So far off as to be irrelevant?" Aren't we about the same age? I'm still buying green bananas...

Anyhow, it's all academic for me, as I have approaching zero 95s and 96s (one more bottle of this, three pairs of 96s from other châteaux). I'll open the other Poyferré in 7-10 years. It wasn't unyielding, just mid-development, I thought.
cheers, Patchen
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Brian K Miller

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Re: WTN: A close shave, etc.

by Brian K Miller » Mon Jun 13, 2016 11:10 am

Good notes on the Broc. I'm a big fan of this bottling as well as his bracing low alcohol Syrahs (bottle under "Cuvee abv%) He made an amazing sparkler from Cab Franc that sang of Cabernet Franc while being a great sparkling wine!

The Spiral was served at a favorite after-bicycle-ride restaurant in Yountville, R&D Kitchen. Nice stuff!
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: A close shave, etc.

by Dale Williams » Mon Jun 13, 2016 2:03 pm

We did a couple '95 horizontals last year, and a '95/'96 shootout this spring. For the first time I felt they were mostly pretty approachable (with hours of air, though).
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Patchen Markell

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Re: WTN: A close shave, etc.

by Patchen Markell » Mon Jun 13, 2016 2:56 pm

Dale: I saw those shootout notes and found them encouraging! We've got a couple of glasses of the Poyferré left for tonight, will be interesting to see what it's like on the second night.

Brian: that sparkling CF sounds interesting. Dry? In any event, I might have to do a Broc order this Fall, when things cool down. It rarely shows up in Chicago, and I'd like to try a wider range of his stuff.
cheers, Patchen
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Re: WTN: A close shave, etc.

by Brian K Miller » Mon Jun 13, 2016 4:06 pm

Patchen: Yes, it was dry. It retained an amazing amount of Cab Franc character, too.
...(Humans) are unique in our capacity to construct realities at utter odds with reality. Dogs dream and dolphins imagine, but only humans are deluded. –Jacob Bacharach

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