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WTN: Old and new

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Patchen Markell

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WTN: Old and new

by Patchen Markell » Mon Jun 06, 2016 8:47 pm

A few things from the last several days:

EIEIO 2004 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, Meredith Mitchell Vineyard. The last of the four bottles of EIEIO -- two each from MM and Broadley -- that we bought at the Carleton Tasting Room a decade ago. Impressive: concentric rings of meatiness, minerality, and flowers surrounding a dense core that suggests the possibility of even further development. I thought this was likely to be a fruitless chemistry experiment, but boy was I wrong.

Enfield Wine Company 2014 Chalone Pinot Noir, Antle Vineyard. Balanced, refined, pleasant enough but very tightly wound and not especially expressive; if I had more of this I'd put it away for 5-8 years to see if it comes out of its cave.

Dirty and Rowdy 2015 California Mourvedre "Familiar." This, on the other hand, is goofily expressive: Purple flowers, bloody red fruit, a light sprinkling of crunchy tannin, barely prickly acidity, fresh and deeply flavorful.

Le Fraghe 2013 Bardolino. A $16 Corvina and Rondinella blend that doesn't wow, but serves its purpose well enough -- a savory, cherry and bitter-almond tinged light red that can be served cool on a hot night with green food.

Ingrid Groiss 2014 Gemischter Satz. I know very little about current Austrian nomenclature; I gather Groiss is in the Weinviertel section of Niederösterreich, but neither of these appears on the label as a denomination; the label does say "Dorflagen," but I think that's not a geographical or vineyard designation; I dunno quite what it means. Anyhow, this is a field blend of who knows what; it's a tasty combination of rich and austere, showing some spice and waxiness that definitely suggests Grüner, but also riper fruit and a lot of rocks. Excellent quality and complexity for $22.
cheers, Patchen
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Old and new

by David M. Bueker » Mon Jun 06, 2016 9:47 pm

I wish I had known you had that Enfield wine. I would have told you to leave it be.
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Re: WTN: Old and new

by Patchen Markell » Mon Jun 06, 2016 10:28 pm

It was from a restaurant wine list. I should have asked for one to go. :-)
cheers, Patchen
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TomHill

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Re: WTN: Old and new

by TomHill » Tue Jun 07, 2016 8:19 am

Patchen Markell wrote:A few things from the last several days:

Ingrid Groiss 2014 Gemischter Satz. I know very little about current Austrian nomenclature; I gather Groiss is in the Weinviertel section of Niederösterreich, but neither of these appears on the label as a denomination; the label does say "Dorflagen," but I think that's not a geographical or vineyard designation; I dunno quite what it means. Anyhow, this is a field blend of who knows what; it's a tasty combination of rich and austere, showing some spice and waxiness that definitely suggests Grüner, but also riper fruit and a lot of rocks. Excellent quality and complexity for $22.


Welcome to the world of IngridGroiss. This lady makes amazingly good wines at very reasonable prices. "Dorflagan" refers to one of two vnyds (the other is Bernhardt) that she makes her GemischterSatz from. By law, it must be made from 3 or more grape varieties. Ingrid has these two old vnyds that have a lot of autochthonous varieties ..like Hietl Rote, Silberweisse, Weisse Vöslauer and Graue Vöslauer (varieties that where planted everywhere in Weinviertel but now nobody knows them any more) planted in them.
She's one of my favorite Austrian producers. Hoping to do a visit there w/ her in Sept.
Tom
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Re: WTN: Old and new

by David M. Bueker » Tue Jun 07, 2016 9:38 am

Patchen Markell wrote:It was from a restaurant wine list. I should have asked for one to go. :-)


I am amazed he made enough of that wine for it to get onto a restaurant wine list. John's operation is still quite small.
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Re: WTN: Old and new

by Patchen Markell » Tue Jun 07, 2016 9:39 am

Thanks, Tom! I figured if anyone knew the details, you would. I haven't seen Groiss wines or any Gemischte Sätze at all in Chicago; in fact, the representation of Austrian wine in this market seems to have gone way downhill in the last 10 yrs. This was part of a mixed case of summer whites I ordered from Europa Wine Merchant in Portland. I won't be shipping any more stuff this summer but if I were, I'd be all over this!
cheers, Patchen
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TomHill

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Well....

by TomHill » Tue Jun 07, 2016 9:48 am

Patchen Markell wrote:Thanks, Tom! I figured if anyone knew the details, you would. I haven't seen Groiss wines or any Gemischte Sätze at all in Chicago; in fact, the representation of Austrian wine in this market seems to have gone way downhill in the last 10 yrs. This was part of a mixed case of summer whites I ordered from Europa Wine Merchant in Portland. I won't be shipping any more stuff this summer but if I were, I'd be all over this!


Well, Patchen.....Ingrid's wines are imported by CircoVino out of Tuscon.
They have distribution in Illinois:
http://www.circovino.com/find-our-wines/distributors/
So you might be able to track them down there in Chicago.
GemitscherSatz wines are not a genre that is very widely available from Austria. But there seems
to be a renewed interest in making those wines over there.
Tom
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Re: WTN: Old and new

by Patchen Markell » Tue Jun 07, 2016 9:53 am

Tom: Great! Thanks, I'll look into it.

David: It's a pretty unusual list. Assembled by an ex-Alinea somm (Steve Morgan). You'd love it -- it has a whole page of California Ribolla Gialla. :wink: But it's also where we tried that D&R Mourvèdre a few months back. It's always been a strange match with the restaurant (Formento's), which is sort of old-school Frank-Sinatra-style-high-end-Italian-American-meets-local-ingredients-and-contemporary-techniques. It leaned toward heavier dishes, though, and the menu didn't change frequently enough for me to want to go eat there as often as I wanted to go drink there. I put that in the past tense because they're just now having a turnover at all levels -- new chef & pastry, new sommelier. The new dishes are already a lot more seasonal, which is encouraging; but I don't know whether the new somm will be able to maintain the relationships with the very small producers that Morgan was bringing in.
cheers, Patchen

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