WTN: Lodi Native Zin

A couple of months back Tom Hill (I think it was) posted an article about the Lodi Native project, a set of six Lodi Zins from different old-vines plantings, made by different winemakers but according to a common protocol (natural yeasts, no new wood, etc.). Sounded good to me, so I bought the six-pack, and tonight we had the first one: Lodi Native St. Amant Winery 2013 Mokelumne River-Lodi Zinfandel, "Marian's Vineyard." 14.5% ABV. Originally planted in 1901. Broad, warm blackberry fruit that interestingly doesn't seem at all candied; relatively high-toned for a wine of this size, a little floral, good acidic and tannic structure, showing absolutely no alcoholic heat. Softens but doesn't fall apart with time and air. One of the most interesting things about this wine, to me, is that it helps me find the line between the grape and the wood treatment: I think I'd have been inclined to ascribe some of the brawn of this wine's finish to wood, but I think it might just be the skins -- though of course the protocol leaves room for slightly "used" but nevertheless non-neutral barrels, so you never know. At any rate, a delicious and varietally transparent wine that paired perfectly with slightly spicy barbecued chicken. It would have been good to open one of the other Lodi Native wines at the same time for comparative purposes, but we'll do so soon.

A couple of months back Tom Hill (I think it was) posted an article about the Lodi Native project, a set of six Lodi Zins from different old-vines plantings, made by different winemakers but according to a common protocol (natural yeasts, no new wood, etc.). Sounded good to me, so I bought the six-pack, and tonight we had the first one: Lodi Native St. Amant Winery 2013 Mokelumne River-Lodi Zinfandel, "Marian's Vineyard." 14.5% ABV. Originally planted in 1901. Broad, warm blackberry fruit that interestingly doesn't seem at all candied; relatively high-toned for a wine of this size, a little floral, good acidic and tannic structure, showing absolutely no alcoholic heat. Softens but doesn't fall apart with time and air. One of the most interesting things about this wine, to me, is that it helps me find the line between the grape and the wood treatment: I think I'd have been inclined to ascribe some of the brawn of this wine's finish to wood, but I think it might just be the skins -- though of course the protocol leaves room for slightly "used" but nevertheless non-neutral barrels, so you never know. At any rate, a delicious and varietally transparent wine that paired perfectly with slightly spicy barbecued chicken. It would have been good to open one of the other Lodi Native wines at the same time for comparative purposes, but we'll do so soon.

Yup....'twas me, Patchen. We tasted thru the set a few weeks ago. This was one of my favorites of the six. I wasn't blown away
by the Lodi Natives, but they clearly are are change of pace from the Lodi Zins of old....not the soft/soupy kind of Lodi Zin.
Tom

Thanks again for the lead on these, Tom; Zin is really the last thing I needed to be buying, since I'm sitting on a backlog of Ridge ATP, but on the other hand it's really nice to try something different. Cheers!