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WTN: taking a chance on Aleatico

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Patchen Markell

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WTN: taking a chance on Aleatico

by Patchen Markell » Wed May 25, 2016 11:27 am

Andrea Occhipinti 2014 VdT Rosso, "Rosso Arcaico," Lazio, Italy; $30.00. 50% Aleatico, 50% Grechetto Rosso, fermented and aged in amphora. The producer is no relation to the Occhipintis of Sicily, as far as I know. This is pretty interesting: light ruby in the glass, darkening a little bit with air but never much; at first, seems almost like a very light Chianti, but eventually begins to release some florality, less like the violets of Syrah than like a background honeysuckle note -- as well as a little bit of balsamic. The florality here is strange to find in a dry red wine, at least for me, but it falls into place when I look up Aleatico and find that it's in the Muscat family! As curiosities go, this is pretty satisfying, and I'd be interested to try other Aleatico-based wines, though I might have to go to Elba to do it.
cheers, Patchen

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