WTN: Ballentine Vineyards '03 Napa Valley Cabernet Franc

Ballentine Vineyards '03 Napa Valley Cabernet Franc, Estate Grown, Pocai Vineyard, 14.7% abv, MSRP, $24.00: This is 100% Cabernet Franc grown near Calistoga where, if I'm not mistaken, it's kind of hot and quite unlike Bordeaux. A bright ruby color greets the eye as the wine is poured into the glass. One clearly smells the French oak, but dark fruits, pepper, and spice make their way through the wood. On the palate the wine is overwhelmingly herbaceous ... capsicum, capsicum, capsicum. I still like it and I hasten to add that, although it means nothing, this wine drapes the most beautiful legs along the walls of my glass that I've ever seen. I'll have to pour a glass and come back in an hour.

Since I like herbaceous Cab Franc, I'll have to try this one. Another wine of this character is the William Harrison Cab Franc from well south of St Helena on the Silverado Trail.

Ballentine Vineyards '03 Napa Valley Cabernet Franc, Estate Grown, Pocai Vineyard, 14.7% abv, MSRP, $24.00:
I still like it and I hasten to add that, although it means nothing, this wine drapes the most beautiful legs along the walls of my glass that I've ever seen.

Those great legs are a result of the evaporation of the high alcohol content of this wine.

Ballentine Vineyards '03 Napa Valley Cabernet Franc, Estate Grown, Pocai Vineyard, 14.7% abv, MSRP, $24.00:
I still like it and I hasten to add that, although it means nothing, this wine drapes the most beautiful legs along the walls of my glass that I've ever seen.

Those great legs are a result of the evaporation of the high alcohol content of this wine.

Yes, I realize that they are related to alcohol, surface tension and all that science stuff, but they were just so pretty. The visual aesthetics were amazing and really had nothing to do with the quality of the wine (which, by the way, didn't taste hot despite its 14.7%). If I hadn't been using a logo glass to drink from, I would have made a few photos on top of a light box and done a little abstract art. Hey, when you're sitting alone on a Saturday night, the mind starts to wander!

Hi Gary!

Thanks for the TNs. I have never had a Cabernet Franc before, only small amounts in bordeauxs. Are CFs known for their herbaceousness or do you think it was just this particular one?

-Your Jersey pal Maria

Hi Gary!

Thanks for the TNs. I have never had a Cabernet Franc before, only small amounts in bordeauxs. Are CFs known for their herbaceousness or do you think it was just this particular one?

-Your Jersey pal Maria

Hi, Maria!

I wish I could answer your question, but I haven't had all that many 100% Cabernet Francs in my lifetime. In fact, I bought this one because it was something of a novelty for me, although the market is not lacking in 100% Cabernet Francs

From what I've read and heard tell, this variety (which along with Sauvignon Blanc is a genetic parent to Cabernet Sauvignon) is lighter and less tannic than its child and can indeed tend to herbaceousness with an aroma similar to what you'd experience with an underripe Cabernet Sauvignon. The two or three I've tried which were all from California seem to confirm this, but that's just a few droplets out of a sea of wine.

Maybe one of the resident experts will chime in.

Hey, you've got to start cruising them Jersey wines and letting us know about them. Go here for a start: Garden State Wine Growers Association.

I have become more fond of Cabernet Franc this past year. Yes, it is lighter in body, and has less tannin than Cabernet Sauvignon. It's aroma is more herbaceous and can have nice floral characteristics. It tastes lighter and brighter than Cab Sauv.

I don't tend to drink much 100% Cabernet Franc, but have some lovely ones from Chinook and OS Winery. However, I have discovered a real fondness for Bordeaux-style blends with substantial amounts of Cabernet Franc. Example blends are the Chinook Yakima Valley Red Wine (Cab Franc 45%), Basel Cellars Walla Walla Red Wine (Cab Franc 44%), and Soos Creek Sundance (Cab Franc 50% in the 2004 vintage). All of these wines come from Washington state.

-- Clark

Hi Gary!

Thanks for the TNs. I have never had a Cabernet Franc before, only small amounts in bordeauxs. Are CFs known for their herbaceousness or do you think it was just this particular one?

-Your Jersey pal Maria

Hi, Maria!

I wish I could answer your question, but I haven't had all that many 100% Cabernet Francs in my lifetime. In fact, I bought this one because it was something of a novelty for me, although the market is not lacking in 100% Cabernet Francs

From what I've read and heard tell, this variety (which along with Sauvignon Blanc is a genetic parent to Cabernet Sauvignon) is lighter and less tannic than its child and can indeed tend to herbaceousness with an aroma similar to what you'd experience with an underripe Cabernet Sauvignon. The two or three I've tried which were all from California seem to confirm this, but that's just a few droplets out of a sea of wine.

Maybe one of the resident experts will chime in.
==================================================================

Gary and Maria,

The herbaceous taste in Cabernet Franc comes from a phenolic compound in the skins called methoxypyrezine. It is also found in Cabernet Sauvignon and to a lesser extent Merlot. Once the grapes change color and start to soften and ripen (this is called veraison), the level of this phenol goes down. In cool climates more of it stays on in the mature fruit, so you will find this character in Chinon and Bourgueil in France's Loire Valley, as well as Cabernet Francs from Michigan, Ohio, and New York. With cellaring this turns into wonderful autumnal flavors of dried leaves and combined with oak aging, tobacco or cigar box scents. The below link is to a good overview of this grape in New York's Finger Lakes appellation.
http://www.ijamming.net/Wine/CabernetFranc1.html

My experience with it here in Michigan goes back 20 years. It is a very productive variety, so there is a tendency to overcrop it which definitely affects the methoxypyrezine levels. Overcropped Cab Franc can taste like pizza toppings out of a blender--not very pleasant!! I crop mine at less than 2 tons per acre and get very low levels of herbaceaousness which allows the lovely red currant/red raspberry fruit to shine. I also see an increase in tannins with low cropping it. Watch for some stellar wines made from this variety coming out of Michigan!

Jim Lester
Wyncroft, LLC

The herbaceous taste in Cabernet Franc comes from a phenolic compound in the skins called methoxypyrezine. It is also found in Cabernet Sauvignon and to a lesser extent Merlot. Once the grapes change color and start to soften and ripen (this is called veraison), the level of this phenol goes down. In cool climates more of it stays on in the mature fruit ...

Jim, Your response made it after all. Cool!

You mention climate. I allude to this particular Cabernet Franc's being grown in a hot climate near Calistoga which is very unlike the climate in Bordeaux. I would have expected a riper version of this grape from here and, perhpaps, less herbaceousness. (Not that that would necessarily be a good thing. I liked the wine the way it was.)

Gary,

I have no experience of grapegrowing in CA, but I suspect overcropping and shaded canopy are the culprits. I have heard that herbaceousness has been reduced out there in Sauvignon Blanc by using a vertical trellis so the sun can reach the grapes. This makes sense to me as we use a vertical trellis and also leaf pull around the clusters to expose them to sunlight. That works. In CA many vineyards are trained to grow in an umbrella with the grapes hidden under the foliage to protect from sunburn. Shade increases the methoxypyrezine content. Of course that is just my theory!

I don't mind some herbaceousness in Cab Franc either, but I don't want it to dominate the flavor profile. I like it to be "behind" the fruit. Having said that, I like some herbaceousness in my wine if I am having grilled lamb with black pepper garlic, and rosemary!

Jim Lester
Wyncroft, LLC

The herbaceous taste in Cabernet Franc comes from a phenolic compound in the skins called methoxypyrezine. It is also found in Cabernet Sauvignon and to a lesser extent Merlot. Once the grapes change color and start to soften and ripen (this is called veraison), the level of this phenol goes down.

Jim, three minor quibbles:
1. It's methoxypyrazine
2. There are several different related methoxypyrazines present in wine, the most important of which is 3-isobutyl-2-methoxypyrazine which is the "vegetal" component you refer to. It's also present in Sauvignon blanc, where it is often viewed as a positive.
3. Methoxypyrazines are not, strictly speaking, phenolic, though they are closely related. Hydroxypyrazines are the phenolic counterpart.

Mark Lipton
Chemgeek

Once again, I find myself in agreement with what Mark said. BTW, I don't understand what he said.

[James Roscoe]

Once again, I find myself in agreement with what Mark said. BTW, I don't understand what he said.

Spoken like a true politician. Are you running for office?

Hey, you've got to start cruising them Jersey wines and letting us know about them. Go here for a start: Garden State Wine Growers Association.

Gary...I had to LOL about this! When you mentioned it to me the first time, I thought you were kidding...guess not! MMMM mmmm, can't wait to taste those delicious Jersey wines... ! I will probably give them a try at some point.

Mark or Jim - I have been often put off by a "bell pepper" scent taste in my Cabernet Sauvignon (I HATE bell pepper...ugghhh, in any way, shape, or form), so I have always favored other dry reds instead of the CS. So, I guess I was wondering if the Cabernet Franc has that same problem? If CS, is a cross between CF and SB, could the "bell pepper" element be coming from the Sauvignon Blanc? And if that is the case, then would the CF be less "bell peppery" (Sorry, not a very technical description!)

Under-ripe CS can have Bell Pepper notes, but I've only found it offensive in one wine (Castle Rock). I've tasted mint more often

French Loire CF is more known for Bell Pepper notes.

Hey, you've got to start cruising them Jersey wines and letting us know about them. Go here for a start: Garden State Wine Growers Association.

Gary...I had to LOL about this! When you mentioned it to me the first time, I thought you were kidding...guess not! MMMM mmmm, can't wait to taste those delicious Jersey wines... ! I will probably give them a try at some point.

Would I kid you? You live in N.J. and you might get "yer big brudder" to slap me upside the face if I did.

Be ready for underripe, vegetal notes in most vinifera grown in New Jersey. You will have a different kind of experience, but an interesting one, if you turn your attention towards the French-American hybrids grown in the state, Traminette being my fave so far.

Mark or Jim - I have been often put off by a "bell pepper" scent taste in my Cabernet Sauvignon (I HATE bell pepper...ugghhh, in any way, shape, or form), so I have always favored other dry reds instead of the CS. So, I guess I was wondering if the Cabernet Franc has that same problem? If CS, is a cross between CF and SB, could the "bell pepper" element be coming from the Sauvignon Blanc? And if that is the case, then would the CF be less "bell peppery" (Sorry, not a very technical description!)

Quite the opposite, I think, Maria. As Brian says, it's usually only present in underripe Cab S and Merlot, whereas I usually find some leafy, herbaceous notes in most of the Cab F that I drink (OTOH, that may just be that I usually drink Cab F from the Loire). If you look to Cabernets and Merlots from warm growing climates/years you really should get much in the way of bell pepper.

Mark Lipton

[James Roscoe]

Hey, you've got to start cruising them Jersey wines and letting us know about them. Go here for a start: Garden State Wine Growers Association.

Gary...I had to LOL about this! When you mentioned it to me the first time, I thought you were kidding...guess not! MMMM mmmm, can't wait to taste those delicious Jersey wines... ! I will probably give them a try at some point.

Mark or Jim - I have been often put off by a "bell pepper" scent taste in my Cabernet Sauvignon (I HATE bell pepper...ugghhh, in any way, shape, or form), so I have always favored other dry reds instead of the CS. So, I guess I was wondering if the Cabernet Franc has that same problem? If CS, is a cross between CF and SB, could the "bell pepper" element be coming from the Sauvignon Blanc? And if that is the case, then would the CF be less "bell peppery" (Sorry, not a very technical description!)

Gary has "connections." Just laugh at his jokes and be friendly. You don't want to end up sleeping with your favorite pet's head beside you some night.

You live in N.J. and you might get "yer big brudder" to slap me upside the face if I did.

Gary has "connections." Just laugh at his jokes and be friendly. You don't want to end up sleeping with your favorite pet's head beside you some night.

And again!

You guys crack me up!

The herbaceous taste in Cabernet Franc comes from a phenolic compound in the skins called methoxypyrezine. It is also found in Cabernet Sauvignon and to a lesser extent Merlot. Once the grapes change color and start to soften and ripen (this is called veraison), the level of this phenol goes down.

Jim, three minor quibbles:
1. It's methoxypyrazine
2. There are several different related methoxypyrazines present in wine, the most important of which is 3-isobutyl-2-methoxypyrazine which is the "vegetal" component you refer to. It's also present in Sauvignon blanc, where it is often viewed as a positive.
3. Methoxypyrazines are not, strictly speaking, phenolic, though they are closely related. Hydroxypyrazines are the phenolic counterpart.

Mark Lipton
Chemgeek

Mark,

Thanks for the technical details and for the spelling correction. I wrote that at 2:00 in the morning and my spelling is usually better! The hair splitting chemistry is just fine with me, but probably not very useful to Maria and other readers of this board! From a flavor standpoint, it can add some nice complexity to a wine, but as in all things aesthetic, balance is what matters. Then there are folks who just don't like this taste! I do. I have always wanted to redo the cross, SB X CF to see if I can get some seedlings with less methoxypyrazine, particularly using the CF clone (I forgot the #) with the raspberry and violets, and a selection of SB with less veggies than the others. Now that we know the Cab Sauv. is a cross between Cab Franc and Sauvignon Blanc, there could be some fun breeding projects undertaken!

I see you are from Indiana. I live in South Bend, and although I was born in Seattle, I have lived in South Bend since 1976 You should come by the winery for a visit!

Jim Lester
Wyncroft, LLC

Quite the opposite, I think, Maria. As Brian says, it's usually only present in underripe Cab S and Merlot, whereas I usually find some leafy, herbaceous notes in most of the Cab F that I drink (OTOH, that may just be that I usually drink Cab F from the Loire). If you look to Cabernets and Merlots from warm growing climates/years you really should get much in the way of bell pepper.

Mark Lipton[/quote]

Mark, Given that the wine in question was 14.7% alcohol, I am interested in your ideas on how the herbaceousness found its way into these very ripe grapes! Surely low ripeness is not the only factor.

Jim Lester
Wyncroft, LLC

Quite the opposite, I think, Maria. As Brian says, it's usually only present in underripe Cab S and Merlot, whereas I usually find some leafy, herbaceous notes in most of the Cab F that I drink (OTOH, that may just be that I usually drink Cab F from the Loire). If you look to Cabernets and Merlots from warm growing climates/years you really should get much in the way of bell pepper.

Mark Lipton

Mark, Given that the wine in question was 14.7% alcohol, I am interested in your ideas on how the herbaceousness found its way into these very ripe grapes! Surely low ripeness is not the only factor.

Jim Lester
Wyncroft, LLC

Jim,
The wine is question is a Cab Franc, which -- as I said above -- I usually do find an heraceous note in (though I did qualify that with my ignorance about non-Loire Cab F's). My comment about low ripeness was directed toward Cab S and Merlot, which Maria claims to have frequently found bell pepper flavors in. Since swearing off Monterey County Cabernets in the '80s, I have not had many CalCabs with any trace of bell pepper in them. YMMV, of course.

Mark Lipton
p.s. Good to know you're in South Bend. I'd made a note to visit you in Michigan, but this sounds even easier!

Hmm. Most varietal cabernet franc that I've had has left me thinking, "now I know why the Bordelais always blend this with something else." Having tasted varietal CF, I can now recognize it in blends, but I'm always left thinking that that's where it belongs--by itself it always lacks something (or more than one thing).

I'm always willing to be proven wrong on judgments of this sort. I'll keep a watch for this one.

Thanks for the TN.

-Paul W.

P.S. - Yes, I know that CF performs wonders in the Loire--another part of the wine world I wish I knew more of.

Mark,

Please do visit. It is always fun to talk and taste with a fellow geek! What I find is that I get almost NO herbaceousness in my Cab Franc at my sight. I crop it at less than 1.5 tons per acre. That seems to be a factor because my neighbors all have the veggies and they crop at 4 tons per acre or more. I intend to plant more with even closer spacing to see what I get. As every Bordeaux lover knows, one of the truly greats is Cheval Blanc which is always at least 60% Cab Franc. So the grape is capable of greatness. I really think we have it all here in SW MI for this variety. Warm enough to get terrific ripeness, but cool enough to keep our acidity. Low cropping and good winemaking will tell us soon enough what the potential is. One thing that makes it very attractive here is its winter hardiness. It is as tough as Rielsing!

Jim Lester
Wyncroft, LLC