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If you had just one night to spend in Champagne...?

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If you had just one night to spend in Champagne...?

by Jenise » Mon May 02, 2016 7:30 pm

Reims?
Epernay?
A little castle in some out of the way village that has an amazing restaurant?
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: If you had just one night to spend in Champagne...?

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Mon May 02, 2016 10:01 pm

Reims..if only to ride on the new tram system :lol: .
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Re: If you had just one night to spend in Champagne...?

by Tim York » Tue May 03, 2016 5:15 am

Jenise,

If the choice is between Reims and Épernay, it would be a no-brainer for me in favour of the former and not just for the trams :D . As well as Champagne interest, Reims has one of the finest gothic cathedrals in France, where the French kings used to be crowned, and two reputed up-market restaurants, Le Parc Les Crayères (Michelin 2014 **) and L'Assiette Champenoise (Michelin 2014 ***), and a slightly less up-market Le Millénaire (Michelin 2014 *).

If you prefer to be out of town, we have enjoyed our stay a couple of times at La Briqueterie at Vinay, 6km from Épernay with a good restaurant (Michelin 2014 *). Many years ago :shock: (for our 20th wedding anniversary) we stayed at a very nice château/hotel in the Champagne countryside but, so far in my Michelin and Google searches, I can't identify it so it may no longer exist. If I locate it and it still sounds good, I'll post again.

If you have time, do try to visit some smaller (Récoltant Manipulant) producers. For access to them, Épernay is more central. I particularly like Pierre Gimonnet (Cuis), Pierre Moncuit (Le Mesnil), Gatinois (Aÿ), Larmandier-Bernier (Vertus) and Egly-Ouriet (Ambonnay); the last is becoming pricey and cultish but wonderful still red Coteaux Champenois Ambonnay. David can probably suggest many more.

Apologies for quoting from Michelin 2014 but I don't have a more recent edition.

PS: I think that the place in the country where we stayed in 1990 was Château de Fère at Fère-en-Tardenois http://www.chateaudefere.com/fr/ . It looks grander than when we were there and has lost its Michelin stars. It is also 50km to the west of Reims and therefore quite off-centre if visiting core Champagne wine villages.
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Re: If you had just one night to spend in Champagne...?

by David M. Bueker » Tue May 03, 2016 7:09 am

Stay where you have easy access to visit Pierre Peters or Chartogne-Taillet.
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Re: If you had just one night to spend in Champagne...?

by Tim York » Tue May 03, 2016 8:53 am

David M. Bueker wrote:Stay where you have easy access to visit Pierre Peters or Chartogne-Taillet.


Chartogne-Taillet is a new name for me. I see that they are located outside the core zones a few kilometres to the west of Reims; I'll look out for their wines.

Yixin (who remembers his trenchant posts?) and I got turned away when we knocked on the door at Pierre Peters on the grounds that we were not already customers. So I recommend that Jenise makes an appointment before trying there or, better still, get an introduction.

Indeed appointments are always a good idea, particularly with the smaller producers who do multiple tasks themselves. Knowledge of English by the vigneron and his family cannot be taken for granted at the smaller firms.
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Re: If you had just one night to spend in Champagne...?

by David M. Bueker » Tue May 03, 2016 11:06 am

FYI: both Peters and Chartogne are in the Skurnik stabe as Terry Theise imports.
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Re: If you had just one night to spend in Champagne...?

by Bill Spohn » Tue May 03, 2016 11:10 am

"If you had just one night to spend in Champagne...?"

I'd make sure I had warm clothes - Champers is usually pretty cold.....


Image

I'd choose Rheims.

Cathedrale Notre Dame de Rheims is a magnificent 13th century edifice (it was modeled after my all time fave, Chartres - I am a cathedral fan!)

There are also several easily accessed Champagne producers there - Moet, Taittinger, Veuve, Ruinart. Make sure to get a 'cellar' tour - for those that haven't been there, the storage is underground in passages carved out starting in medieval times. Make sure to look up, not just down all the time. You may see some interesting small carvings high up on the walls done by workers (maybe the equivalent of doodling when on a coffee break?)
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Re: If you had just one night to spend in Champagne...?

by Jenise » Tue May 03, 2016 1:19 pm

Thank you everyone! Before making this post, I'd actually booked several hotels of all three types included in my question. Since time is short I had to book everything we thought we might want with the plan to thin the rezzies down to one once we made up our minds. We honestly leaned toward Reims if we could find a decent (*** or better) hotel in the old town near the Cathedral, which we finally did, but we were also swayed by the possibility of a stay in a real castle (with moat) with a terrific restaurant, which we did find to the south, in Etoges. However, being there meant we wouldn't be able to tick off Reims, a place we wanted to go or go through--and, again, we have just ONE night. (Other travellers in our group (7 or 8 couples are converging eventually in Beaune) are staying in Epernay around the same time, but for a longer stay.)

So Reims it is!

Tim, thank you for the restaurant names. L'Assiette is one I recognize, they also are a very posh hotel.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: If you had just one night to spend in Champagne...?

by Ines Nyby » Tue May 03, 2016 1:49 pm

Now I have a question. We will be in Epernay for two nights in early June and I would like to visit some grower/producers of Champagne that is NOT imported into the USA. Any recommendations out there?
Many thanks in advance.
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Sam Platt

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Re: If you had just one night to spend in Champagne...?

by Sam Platt » Wed May 04, 2016 3:40 pm

Ines,

Tarlant makes an outstanding champagne. I do think a quantity is imported to the U.S. by Dressner, but definitely worth a visit if you have time.
Sam

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