WTN: 2005 Glatzer Grüner Veltliner 2005 -Carnuntum, Austria

I hate to write it, but this is the worst Grüner Veltliner I’ve ever had. I was expecting a little baby-fat from a region probably better known for red wines (certainly Glatzer is). What I have instead is the complete opposite. It’s really lean, bordering on watery actually. Keep in mind that this is from a person who likes the subtlety of Chasselas and Silvaner. The fruit is hinting of citrus and white pepper, but ‘hint’ may be too strong a word. It’s a shame too, because it is the most available producer from Carnuntum, an area known for history, value, and uniqueness (as well as a little ‘under-doggedness’, which I’m always a sucker for). It should be distilled. If anyone has any experience with Glatzer Grüner or other producers from Carnuntum (Michael, David?), please chime in. 12,5% alc. $12



Prost!
Bill

Bill, some of the cheap Grüners that make it to Ontario really are without any character - almost neutral with a flat, dull colour and no real character ... and usually around $15 and up. I always buy GVs when I see them, though, because a really grapefruity/white-peppery/green-beany type Grüner is one of my all-time favourite wines, and I am a big sucker for Austrian wines period.

Bill, some of the cheap Grüners that make it to Ontario really are without any character - almost neutral with a flat, dull colour and no real character ... and usually around $15 and up. I always buy GVs when I see them, though, because a really grapefruity/white-peppery/green-beany type Grüner is one of my all-time favourite wines, and I am a big sucker for Austrian wines period.

I love 'em too Paul. I'm pretty selective. This is a Theise wine -who's usually extremely reliable. We have well over 100 Austrian wines to choose from in this market. Without 'average' wines, we wouldn't have spectacular ones.

Prost!
Bill

[David M. Bueker]

That's an unusually disappointing showing for a Glatzer wine. While they do not make "great" Gruner Veltliner, the wines are virtually always varietally correct, inexpensive and highly enjoyable. Sorry to hear your results were not good. Don't let it turn you off the region or producer. It's not a normal experience.

Well, the last time I had a Glatzer Grüner Veltliner was in 2001, when I scored the 1999 Dornenvogel (13%) 91/100: Ruhige, tiefe, aber wunderschöne Nase; zuerst unspektakuläre, aber balancierte Frucht, die aber unglaublich aufmacht, herrliche Extraktsüße, groß.

Can't remember having had any Glatzer GV ever since, but, as David says, this is quite an unusual way a Glatzer wine is showing. At first glance I asked myself if this might be another case of fruit scalping by a phony cork?

Haven't had many Carnuntum whites recently anyhow, for the simple reason that Carnuntum is trying hard to profile itself as red wine region. I do have very fond memories, however, of Gerhard Markowitsch's Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben. But then this is a full-throttle GV with at least 13%.

Michael, thanks for the German TN - I think it's the first one I've ever seen It's interesting that the term 'nose' is also used as such in German.

Best wishes for 2007!

You're welcome Paul!

Anyhow, at http://www.alacarte.at all my articles (including TNs) I wrote for "A la Carte" magazine are available on-line.