Sunny and in the 70s in Chicago, finally!
At Café Spiaggia yesterday: Yves Leccia 2010 Patrimonio White Wine, Corsica. 100% Vermentinu (Vermentino). 13.5% ABV. Didn't know this was a varietal Vermentino when we ordered it, and it didn't taste like any Vermentino I've ever had before: behind the crisp apple fruit and the spice was a streak of waxiness that made me think middle-aged Chenin more than anything else; in any case, it gave the wine a lot of interest and complexity and helped it adapt to a meal that stretched from delicate and acidic crudo to braised pork shoulder with polenta. Delicious.
Tonight, with pea-shoot gnudi with braised rabbit, pancetta-wrapped roasted rabbit loin, morels, and ramps, we decided not to wait any longer to find out if our next-to-last bottle of William Fèvre 2002 Chablis, Grand Cru, "Les Preuses" was premoxed. It was: not overwhelmingly sherried but still clearly flat, tired, and turning nutty on the finish. CT notes seem to suggest that there's at least some chance our last bottle will be okay, but I'm not crossing my fingers.
So we went in a different direction, and a good one, given the greenness of the dish: Château Carbonnieux 2013 Pessac-Léognan Blanc. 75% Sauvignon, 25% Sémillon. 12.5% ABV. This is terrific, a really nice balance between cutting greenness accented with white pepper and not-quite-honeyed richness, open and expressive now, but also with concentration and structure to spare; it will be interesting to check back on this in several years.