I think this is largely because I do not enjoy occasional large tastings like this nearly so much as the series of much smaller tasting organised wine merchants every spring and autumn in Belgium. At those I had time to talk to the growers without straining to reach the spittoons and without being jostled, there was a sort of familiarity, almost friendship, developed between the tasters whom I met every year and I usually knew the organisers quite well. By contrast this big Paris tasting and a similar one organised by the RVF were crowded, anonymous and friendless with such a large number of exhibitors that severe selection was needed, even though, unlike in Belgium, I was not driving home afterwards. Add to that the fact that the Bataclan and Stade de France terrorist attacks had only just occurred, leading to a vague unease which caused me to avoid public transport in the city with inevitable foot fatigue (luckily it was a fine day).
The event was well organised with an excellently detailed programme brochure with space for notes as well as brochures handed out by exhibitors with an especially good one with maps from Louis Latour. There were cloakroom, eating facilities and toilets, but all crowded with queues. A minus point was lack of seating; I ate my luncheon sandwiches seated on some marble steps.
My tasting choice criterion fell partly on wines with which I was unfamiliar and in three cases on old favourites, access to whose wines I had been missing since I arrived in France.
Jacky Blot – Domaine de la Butte, Bourgueil, and Domaine de la Taille aux Loups, Montlouis
This estate is an old favourite ever since I first tasted them in the early ‘00s and found that the vigour and fruitiness of his Bourgueil even cast shade over Yannick Amirault’s at a nearby table. This time a full range of his 2014s were on show and I thought them outstanding, the whites for their tension and minerality and the reds for their burgeoning fruit which did not efface complexity and structure. At this stage, most of white still showed some vanilla traces of oak ageing but my experience tells me that they integrate very quickly. Particularly outstanding were –
Montlouis Triple Zéro NV – Lovely biscuit and smooth with fine bubbles
Montlouis Rémus Plus – Extra depth and more open fruit than other whites therefore less obvious oak.
Bourgueil Pied de la Butte – Entry level wine but absolutely delicious with croquant fruit.
Bourgueil Mi-pente – The top red not so open, of course, but full of substance, tannic structure, complex and long. Good for 20 years at least.
Note: In the past, I have enjoyed excellent Vouvray from Taille aux Loups, but they are now labelled Vin de France. This results from a new rule in Vouvray which limits the appellation to wines vinified and bottled in the Vouvray appellation area, as if this is somehow going to enhance the taste of Vouvray grapes. I can’t help thinking that this is a mean spirited action deliberately aimed at embarrassing Jacky Blot and François Chidaine
.Alphonse Mellot - Sancerre
I was particularly curious to take a look at the much praised and highly priced reds from Pinot Noir. I had read that they undergo heavy oak treatment but I was not bothered by that on –
La Moussière (R) 2012 (€27) – Round and ripe with some tannic structure. Already drinking well but too dear for an everyday Pinot fix.
En Grands champs (R) 2012 (€51) – More tension, length and structure than previous and complex with ivy and spice notes. I would like to revisit some time down the road but at that price……?
As for the whites, I am unconvinced by Mellot’s efforts to sublimate Sauvignon blanc by making them suave with a luxurious élevage. I prefer the efforts of both Cotat estates. However, I might have surrendered to –
Edmond 2012 – Deliciously complex with white fruit, pineapple, etc.,
were it not for the price (€41).
Emidio Pepe – Abruzzo
I had heard that this estate produces wines a cut above others in Abruzzo, good though some of those are. On this brief acquaintance I think that the claim is justified.
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo 2013 – A white of marked character different from others. Round, rich, fruity and complex.
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2011 – Lots of rich English fruitcake but also a touch of brett.
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva 2003 – This is one of the very few M d’A which convinces me that it can take on greatness with age. Richer, rounder and at the same time livelier than the 2011 basic with suave texture and no brett.
Fuori Mondo - Maremma, Tuscany
This was not on my list of estates to taste but its owner, Olivier Paul-Morandini, was at the stand next to Emidio Pepe’s and presented their wines in the absence of the Pepe people. He is from Brussels, where my wife was born and where we lived for over 40 years, so it was easy to get on with him and I naturally wanted to taste his range. He acquired the estate, then known as Volpaiole, in 2008 on a coup de coeur and has since expanded the production and range. He is undoubtedly a perfectionist but the style of his wines is not my favourite leaning in a “modern” direction and seeming to me almost Californian in the Bordeaux blends. A quality endorsement comes from the number of prestigious restaurants, such as Comme chez Soi in Brussels, who list his wines.
The wines are all IGT Toscana –
D’acco 2014 from Alicante – too perfumed for me.
Libero 2014 from Cillegiolo, which he described as a “father of Sangiovese” – Nicely fruity.
Pema 2012, a Cab/Merlot blend – quite sweet fruited and substantial.
Lino 2012 from Sangiovese – more open and fresh than previous with attractive fruit.
Amae 2012 from CabSauv – a lot of substance but quite closed now.
Roberto Voerzio – La Morra
I have never owned any wines from this famous producer and was curious to take a look. The Barolos from 2011 and 2010 were far too young, tannic and woody for my taste but –
Barolo Riserva 10 anni Case Nere 2005 gave a clue what they may become. Attractive aromas, violet dominated, were present and the typical Barolo fruit, rose and tar now emerged as the tannins had tamed and the wood was now integrated.
Barbera d’Alba Pozzo Annunziata 2011 was horrible; big and unpleasantly woody.
Château de Bellet, Bellet, Provence
I have always been fascinated by the wines of this small appellation situated on the heights above Nice but still within the city limits. This is the appellation’s most prestigious estate, whose wines I had never before tasted. They are made from unusual grape cocktails, mainly Rolle for the whites, Braquet for the pink and Braquet 5%, Folle Noir 60% and Grenache 35% for the red.
Baron G ’14 (W) and La Chapelle ’14 (W) – quite rich Mediterranean complexity, especially the latter, with some mineral and wood.
Baron G ’14 (rosé) – fuller and more concentrated than most of its kind.
Baron G (R) – I was treated to vertical (’13 back to ’10) of these wines which were so powerful and concentrated that my palate started being unable to find many distinctions. On the ’13, I noted dark fruit with barrique quite prominent and from ’12 wood flavours progressively diminishing with textures becoming smoother and richer and the appearance of some orange peel notes.
Pierre Gimonnet & Fils, Cuis, Champagne
This is another old friend to which I immediately turned to refresh my palate after the battering from Voerzio and Chäteau de Bellet. M.Gimmonet affected to be offended when I told him this but I was able to recover by telling him truthfully how superb I had found the magnums of 1990 which I had bought from the estate. This is a superb range of elegant, mineral and precise Champagnes which enjoy very reasonable prices. I mention particularly –
Cuis 1er cru b de b (€24) – mineral and elegant.
“Oeniophile” non-dosé 1er cru b de b 2008 (€35) – tense, sharply focussed and mineral.
Fleuron 1er cru b de b 2009 (€33) – complex and long.
Penfolds, Australia
I had never tasted Yattarna and here was an opportunity –
Derwent Valley Coal Valley Adelaide Hills Bin 144 Yattarna 2013 (€140) – buttery nose, rich smooth palate with more butter together with some freshness. I might buy at a fifth of the price asked.
(PS – I actually preferred the Chard/Viognier (€11) at the next stand from the Guffens Verget Vaucluse venture for its freshness, charming fragrant with just enough Viognier aroma coming through.)
Barossa McLaren Vale Padthway, Bin 389 Cab/Shiraz 2013 (€50) – good fruit and structure but woody.
Domaine William Fèvre, Chablis
My palate was in more need of cleansing and what better than crisp Chablis from another old friend estate. An outstanding range from 2013 with a special mention for –
1er cru Valourent (€35) – sharply focussed, fragrant and mineral.
GCs Vaudésir and Bougros (€54) – former more mineral and structured, latter meatier and rounder.
Louis Latour, Beaune
I booked into this Master Class, presented by the estate’s directeur and a member of the Bettane/Desseauve team whose names I failed to note.
I have a special affection for this négociant because over 50 years ago I had an Epiphany moment on tasting Chambertin Cuvée Héritiers Latour 1947 and at about same time Louis Latour was the first Burgundian producer whom I visited with the privilege of a taste from a barrel of Corton Grancey 1959.
The wines on show were 2010s. I have to say that I was a bit disappointed because the excessive youth of the reds rendered them rather inexpressive and because of the woodiness of the white. They would probably have been more enjoyable with food. I also make the proviso that, after the battering which my palate had endured from Voerzio, Bellet and Penfolds, my perception of tannins may have been exaggerated. I was also a bit disconcerted by the dithyrambic comments coming from the chair as they contrasted with my perceptions from my glass.
GC Perrières – C q.pale. Stalky, subdued aromas, little fruit, angular tannins. Closed and not ready.
GC Clos du Roi– Rather more depth, rounder tannins and hints of coming charm but also quite closed.
Corton Grancey GC – Closer to its drinking window with the most depth and roundness of the three reds with some griotte cherry fruit beginning to peep though the tannins and length more apparent.
Corton-Charlemagne GC (W) – buttery and woody N and lots of cedar on the P with flint, hazel nut and white fruit peeping through. Not unlike the Yattarna but with more minerality and tension.
After the tasting, I asked the directeur if the firm still practiced pasteurisation of its reds. He admitted that they did and hastened to add that other estates had similar practices to similar effect, if not identical.