WTN: A new understanding of vinho verde (for me)

You may be more aware of Portuguese wine than I am, but a recent trip to Lisbon showed me many delicious and some unexpected things. In particular, the 2009 Afros Vinho Verde Loureiro was richer deeper and more golden than I ever thought Vinho Verde could/would be. As such, it was not the match for the food that I had intended, but somehow I survived such a tasty travesty.

Interesting.
I like vinho verde (well, good renditions of the white type, the red leaves me yawning, and bad vv is unappealing), but in the "simple refresher:" category. I usually just buy whatever a good store like CSW has in stock. Never really have paid attention to producers.
Never had one more than a year old

Interesting.
I like vinho verde (well, good renditions of the white type, the red leaves me yawning, and bad vv is unappealing), but in the "simple refresher:" category. I usually just buy whatever a good store like CSW has in stock. Never really have paid attention to producers.
Never had one more than a year old

These guys are 'natural' (and a few years ago changed the spelling to Aphros), I think they can be found in the US and are known as one of the more unique producers in the area. I found all of this out later, but was mainly attracted by the fact that there was an 09 vinho verde by the glass, it was something I've never seen before and made my decision very easy.

I am under the impression that Loureiro is not the true classic grape variety for VV, so the style is different.

"Although now widely disseminated throughout the Vinho Verde region, it seems that the Loureiro grape originated in the valley of the River Lima, towards the north of the VR Minho/DOC Vinho Verde region. "Loureiro" means "laurel" or "bay" and the aroma of Loureiro wines is said to resemble that of laurel flowers, also orange blossom, acacia and lime blossom, overlaying appley, peachy fruit. Loureiro wines usually have refreshing, well-balanced acidity. Loureiro is much in evidence nowadays bottled as a single variety, but traditionally it was more often blended with Arinto (Pedernã) and Alvarinho, or with Trajadura. It is a very vigorous, high-yielding variety that has only recently been recognised as "noble". The bunches are elongated and relatively compact, bearing medium-sized, yellowish-greenish grapes".

See also http://www.winesofportugal.info/pagina.php?codNode=3889

Most people are going to associate Vinho Verde with the light fizzy, low alcohol styles like Casal Garcia. And when fresh and cold, these wines are delightful summer drinks. The problem is that the region of Minho has been making a variety of more 'serious' wines (for lack of a better term), which are still designated 'Vinho Verde', but tend to be dryer wines up in the 12-13% abv range, some made from a single grape, and even aged in oak. There is also a move to play down some of the lesser grapes (e.g. Azal) and to focus on grape quality (e.g. in traditional mixed agriculture in the region, the grapes were grown on high pergolas, so that other crops could grow underneath - not optimal for quality).

As Bob points out, certain sub-regions within the Minho are known for particular grapes, e.g. Loureiro in the Lima valley - this is where the Aphros grapes are grown. While the Aprhos people have gotten some US notice among the natural wine crowd (and they are nice wines), there are not alone in this segment by any means: for instance http://www.quintadoameal.com/index.php/en/ is another minimal interventionist producer with a Loureiro specialization. I'm glad Rahsaan found a '09 Loureiro to be in good form, as I'm not really sure how wines from that grape age (I know some Alvarinho can age well).

Up near the Minho river itself, around the towns of Moncao and Melgaco, you will find specialists in Alvarinho, with top producers like http://www.soalheiro.com/en/home and http://www.anselmomendes.pt/en/osvinhos . And there is some excitement about what can be done with the grape Avesso, which flourishes mostly in the south west of the Minho; this is one good producer distributed in the US: http://www.covela.pt/en/client/skins/geral.php?id=42 . And as Dale hints, there is a red Vinho Verde, with the more uncompromising versions made from the grape Vinhao, which can be an acquired taste. I find it especially pleasing when consumed from the traditional white porcelain bowls, malgas, found in the region.

The Minho is a lovely place to visit of increasing interest to the wine lover (good hearty food too).

Great to see you here Joe, your enthusiasm for the region is well known. You will remember my Soalheiro TN a few weeks ago and the Albarinho/Alvarinho discussion. By the way I just purchased some 2011 Ameal!

Thought I would just mention that at a tasting downtown, I had my first ever sparkling Alvarinho from Quinta do Soalheiro. Just over $40 Cdn and showed up nicely in a sparkling wine store tasting.
(Have to add that the 2007 Iron Horse Green Valley Classic Vintage Brut was a steal for $28 Cdn).

Thought I would just mention that at a tasting downtown, I had my first ever sparkling Alvarinho from Quinta do Soalheiro. Just over $40 Cdn and showed up nicely in a sparkling wine store tasting.
(Have to add that the 2007 Iron Horse Green Valley Classic Vintage Brut was a steal for $28 Cdn).

http://www.soalheiro.com/en/vinhos/soal ... rinho-2013

Thought I would just mention that at a tasting downtown, I had my first ever sparkling Alvarinho from Quinta do Soalheiro. Just over $40 Cdn and showed up nicely in a sparkling wine store tasting.
(Have to add that the 2007 Iron Horse Green Valley Classic Vintage Brut was a steal for $28 Cdn).

Glad you enjoyed it. For some reason, the US importer brings in most of the Soalehiro's still wines but not the sparkling. My local shop just got the 2015 regular Alvarinho, so I'll need to give that a try.

Nice Joe, look forward to your impressions.

Quiet night here Chez Bob so looking for some Vinho Verde chat! I note that our renowned Portugal expert Joe Moryl has always had good things to say about Quinta do Ameal. Well, I just happened to open the 2011 this past weekend to go with my baked Tilapia on a bed of fennel with ginger, shallots, diced tomatoes and asparagus. Have to think there is still some downtown but have seen the 2015 vintage elsewhere.

Sure has aged nicely and ready to go, no oak hints noted at all. Mineral tones with terrific acidity on a memorable finish. Light golden color, inviting nose of citrus and apple. Quite dry, very bright acidity as I said, this Loureiro hits the spot at 11.5% alc.

[David M. Bueker]

Bob,

A very interesting interview with a Portugese producer in Vinho Verde DOC. He works biodynamic.

Part 1:
http://makerstable.com/2016/08/13/a-con ... -part-one/

Part 2:
http://makerstable.com/2016/08/13/a-con ... -part-two/

Part 2 includes links to reviews of the wines as well.