WTN: Two reds from Etna

An interesting comparison tonight. We opened two Nerello Mascalese-based reds from Etna: a 2013 Benanti Etna Rosso "Rossodiverzella," mostly Nerello Mascalese with some Nerello Cappuccio in the mix; 13.5% ABV; $19.00; and a 2011 Passopisciaro IGP Sicilia Rosso, "Contrada Sciaranuovo," 100% Nerello Mascalese, 14.0% ABV, $75.00. The Benanti is a medium-garnet wine that leans slightly more toward the meaty and funky end of the palate than the most delicate Etnas, but it's still immediately accessible: lively, savory, and without a particularly tannic finish. Balanced and tasty. The Passopisciaro is a little deeper in color in the glass, though not as much as I expected; and while it's considerably more tannic, especially at first taste, it's not actually significantly different in mouthfeel and doesn't seem hot or thick. The flavor is darker and more concentrated, showing plum more than cherry, and there's a hint of prune that suggests riper fruit at harvest. Tasted on their own, my first reaction is to prefer the Benanti, which is what I'd have expected based on my general prejudices. But with time, and with strong food (pasta with broccoli rabe and Calabrian peppers), the Passopisciaro really comes into its own: the extra stuffing pays off, and the wine shows some floral and spice notes on top of the broadening fruit; it begins to remind me of a young Barbaresco, and makes me think it might be magical with some time. Hard to know what to take away from the comparison: the difference between them hardly seems dramatic enough to warrant the 4:1 ratio of prices; but the side-by-side does make the Passopisciaro seem like a serious candidate for cellaring in a way that the Benanti isn't (though it's a serious bargain for everyday drinking). Maybe I'll have another ounce in each glass and keep thinking about it.

Thanks for the double Etna. I was blown away by the Passopisciaro Bianco but have not had the red, so glad to hear it is good as well. Although, ahem, it is pricy.

Still and all, it's an estate I will watch. That Nerello-to-Nebibiolo thing you alluded to is intriguing.

[Jenise]

That Passopisciaro is a bottling I've not seen in our area yet but have been curious about as I'm such a fan of the more basic bottling that sells at $30-40. Nice to read about, thanks.

I think I've had that basic bottling in a restaurant; I'd like to try it again now that I've had this.

I bought this one in a very small shop and managed not to notice the price at first: most of the stuff on the shelves seemed to be in the $20-40 range, so I was just grabbing a few things that looked interesting as a way of sampling the owner's highly curated selection. He kindly pointed out the price before ringing me up, but I decided to keep it. I'll be interested to see how the rest of the bottle is tonight (and the Benanti too): I remain on the fence about the Passopisciaro (only from a VFM point of view), but as I try more Etna reds, I'm finding something really seductive about them, and a little seduction always loosens up the pocketbook...

And I'll look for the whites, too, Hoke!

Patchen, you're not the only one that twigged on the Nerello to Nebbiolo. I picked it up in what I assumed was the regular bottling from the 2007 vintage. And good news, the wines seems perfectly capable of aging well and perhaps even developing more of the Nebbiolishnessn the process.

http://violentfermentation.blogspot.com/2015/03/from-ajaccio-to-etna-sciacciarellu-to.html

I did follow this thread a while back so today found a NM blend with NdA. Wonder what to expect forumites?

I did follow this thread a while back so today found a NM blend with NdA. Wonder what to expect forumites?

IDK.

IDK????

I did follow this thread a while back so today found a NM blend with NdA. Wonder what to expect forumites?

Personally, I'm not a fan of Nero d'Avola wines, finding them fairly neutral in taste and feel, and overblown when they are not restrained, therefore don't see the Nerello blends gaining anything by them. This being said, the NdA/Frappato blends (COS makes excellent ones) are a different, exciting story...

And Hoke, not sure if you were aware that Passopisciarro's bianco is chardonnay.

I usually find NdA to be too glossy, but like the ones from Feudo Montoni, especially the Vrucara.
Agree the COS A. Occhinpinti Frappato/Nero blends are fun,

Thanks for notes (Benanti's white is worth trying, too)