With the Dirty & Rowdy Mourvèdre we had last week still resonating in our memories, we headed out last night for what we thought would be a relatively simple meal, but we were seduced by an end-of-winter venison-focused tasting menu. After scanning the elements on the menu -- things like rye, spruce, fermented cranberry, and smoke -- and the wine list, we decided on a Château de Pibarnon 2009 Bandol. I didn't actually see the ABV on this bottle before it was removed for decanting, but I'd guess it was right around 14%. I also don't know the mix of grapes; there was clearly some dried-strawberry brightness in there that suggested a healthy dose of Grenache, but it tasted Mourvèdre-dominant. A much less floral nose than the D&R, though there are still some violets growing in there, poking up through the brambles, and it's surprisingly delicate and pretty at first. A tight and slightly tart dried-strawberry, cherry and herb palate opens up to more meat and a little bit of gaminess over the couple of hours that we're drinking this. Still very tannic, though not off-puttingly so, and anyway we expected that; but what impressed me was that this was, for all its power, remarkably light on its feet. (And, for those who have some, encouragingly balanced and characterful, though clearly still at the beginning of its life; if it were in my cellar I wouldn't touch one for another 3-5 years at least.) I don't think I was wrong to be surprised by the D&R in light of the expectations I've come to have of Mourvèdre based on Bandols and some other Californians; but now I think I'd probably be surprised by some Bandols, too, in a different way.
Conclusion: must drink more Mourvèdre.