WTN: D & R Mourvedre

One of the more interesting wine lists in town these days is to be found at Formento's, an upscale and updated version of an old-school Italian-American restaurant, where the wines you'd expect -- let's say Chiantis, of which there are 6 -- are outnumbered by ones you wouldn't: for example, California Ribolla Giallas from Arnot-Roberts, Ryme, Matthiasson, and others, of which there are 10. The wine director is also apparently a fan of Dirty & Rowdy, so last night was our first chance to sample one of their wines, which I've been reading about here for the last several weeks. We went with a Dirty & Rowdy 2013 Amador County Mourvedre, "Shake Ridge Ranch." 13.6%. Decanted about 15 minutes before tasting. Fresh-looking and purple in the glass, this has a very expressive floral and licorice nose right off the bat. In the mouth, the same elements cross over into tobacco and almost tar. Not a note of funk to be found. Very structured, both by acid and by a finish that turns tannic quickly, overtaking (but not exactly overwhelming) the modest midpalate fruit. This is really interesting, a much more delicate and aromatically playful varietal Mourvedre than I've had in a long time -- especially for a young wine. Thinking of young Bandols and also of Ridge's Mataros, I had been worried that it would overwhelm the food (or us), but if anything, the danger was of it being overpowered by the Sunday gravy (it held its own). I look forward to exploring this list more, even if I have to eat a lot of meatballs to do it.

[David M. Bueker]

Excellent note. Dirty & Rowdy Mourvèdre is an unusual beast, with maybe one or two of their (many) bottlings coming close to what I would normally expect from the grape. That said they are all very good to outstanding, and the white wines are very fine as well.

Thanks; I've appreciated your notes on their stuff. I signed up for their mailing list today, though I have no idea whether that means I'll get an allocation or not.

[David M. Bueker]

Thanks; I've appreciated your notes on their stuff. I signed up for their mailing list today, though I have no idea whether that means I'll get an allocation or not.

The spring offering has already come and gone. If I had to guess you will be stuck in wish list land until next February. Maybe I can get a couple more bottles to you some way or other.

Funny, I got a welcome message from them saying the next offering was coming in mid-March! We'll see. In any case, thanks for offering to try to get me some, but I wouldn't want to put you out: if I have to wait it's not the end of the world!

[David M. Bueker]

Ah, so he is doing a second spring offer like last year. I was not expecting that to be an annual thing.