by Patchen Markell » Mon Mar 07, 2016 10:59 pm
Having a little fun re-learning the landscape of Chicago retail, I bought a half-case of stuff I'd never heard of from Perman Wine Selections, a small, new-to-me (but 8-year-old) shop, whose several dozen stocked wines include a heavy representation of Things I Tend To Like. One bottle that grabbed me was a Can Ràfols del Caus 2009 Penedès "El Rocallís," 100% Incrocio Manzoni, apparently a cross between Riesling and Pinot Blanc, grown on the Garraf Massif in Catalunya. 13.5% ABV, $29.00. This wine is a deep straw shaded with gold out of the bottle; when first opened and at colder than ideal temperatures, it's not very giving, seeming maybe a little oxidized, but combined with fresh-enough apple-cider, mineral, and spice notes. As it warms and opens up, it clearly proves not to be oxidized, becoming both fresher and a little bit woodier on the finish (it saw a couple of months of new French oak). The overall impression here is of an interesting, well-made wine with a lot of skin contact and as much wood as it could take without being out of balance (which, by my standards, isn't very much). The interest comes mainly from the way the wine pulls in opposite directions at the same time, toward and away from freshness. I don't think I'd ever have guessed this grape had Riesling or Pinot Blanc in its heritage; but I don't care: I like it, because it makes me notice it and appreciate it with each sip.
cheers, Patchen
