Madeira Question

Was reading an interesting article in the latest Wines&Spirits magazine (one of the few wine publications that actually has writers of some competence and articles I occasional learn something from) about the attempts in Madeira to revive the plantings of the Terrantez grape variety. Apparently, TintaNegraMole (as opposed to Verdelho/Malvasia/Sercial/Malmsey), a Grenache X Pinot, is the most widely planted grape on Maderia and accounts some 90% of the grape production there. That's a new one on me.
Apparently, after the oidium/phylloxera outbreak in the late 1800's, there was a lot of transition in plantings from the traditional Madeira varieties, with a lot of plantings of direct producers (American hybrids and Labrusca) going into the ground.
The article implies that these direct producers still play a sizeable role in the production of Madeira.
Anyone who knows Madeira have any idea how important these direct producers are in the production of Madeira?? I would think that the estufa process used in Madeira would obliterate any (less than fine) character these grapes would impart.
Tom

Good question Tom. I have to think that there are some grape varieties growing there that no-one can pin down!

I have some info as a result of researching the background to my book on Pinotage in the chapter. 'The Madeira Mystery'

Yes, the oidium of the mid 1800s was so severe on Madeira that they shipped in Isabella (American vine species) which was thought to be resistant to oidium, but that brought with it the far worse Phylloxera which had "by 1872 devastated them. To restock their dead vineyards Madeira's government shipped in 60,000 American vines in1883."

It seems that one of these vines was Jacquez*, known in Madeira as Jacquet and known by a number of synonyms including in the USA Lenoir (only name officially recognised by TTB) and Black Spanish. It played a major role as a rootstack in Europe and South Africa and is also used as a direct bearer in USA, a small area of France (unofficially) and was and is used as such in Madeira.

However, as a non-vinifera vine it is banned from EU quality wines, and is not allowed in the wine known as Madeira after Madeira joined the EU and has been phased out.

Jacquez is still grown in Maderia and is used the to make village wines and you'll get it as a house wine in village resaurants but is not (officially) allowed to be sold or used in Madeira wine.

*I say 'seems' here because a number of authorities (TV Munson, AI Perold, Madeira Wine Guide, Jancis Robinson in Vines, Grapes & Wines) say Jacquez originated in Madeira and was exported to the USA. My researches convinced me otherwise, I give the reasons in my book. It was one of the most fascinating researches I have done, and I'm still working on the origins of Jacquez. My editors were less fascinated and I cut out a huge amount of the chapter on their advice.......

Thanks, Peter...I knew if I rattled the cage a bit I'd get somebody who knows what they're talking about. Quite interesting. Keep us posted on your research.
Tom

Only 'quite interesting' ????

I asked Alan Gardner, former WLDG participant (and still MoCOOL attendee) who is a great Madeira fan. Here's his reply:

[The following was received from Alan Gardner – a lapsed member of WLDG, who retains a great interest in Madeira – and who just discovered that his old ID and password no longer work]

The article is by Richard Mayson, who is highly regarded in Madeira (and other) circles – particularly for his recent book on Madeira (2015). Although I haven’t read the article, I’m assuming the basic info is as accurate as reasonably available, except that the ‘direct producers’ are essentially banned (EEC regulations – as Peter May has responded).

Indeed Tinta Negra (the grape formerly known as Tinta Negra Mole), is the most widely planted – all estimates I’ve encountered prior to this article suggest maybe 60-70% (including Mayson’s 2015 book on Madeira, which shows 277 hectares of Tinta Negra; 46 hectares Verdelho; 36+ hectares Malvasia (there are several varieties of malvasia) etc.).

One tricky item is the lack of corroborating evidence on some Madeira claims – opinion sometimes is repeated sufficiently often to become ‘fact’. Certainly Terrantez is no longer available in commercial quantities. I was told (no evidence as such, but came directly from one of the famous ‘families’ of Madeira) that the quantity of Terrantez produced is so tiny (currently?) that the only feasible commercial offering would be a ‘blend of named age’ – more than one year’s entire production would be necessary to produce a commercial bottling quantity.

In fact (or rumour!) Terrantez is particularly susceptible to spurious claims. A remarkable quantity of 1899 Terrantez found its way to market (I’ve probably tasted at least 10 different bottles). Also 1954 produced a large number of bottles (again I’ve tried at least 10 bottles), plus 1977 had several shippers. But between those vintage productions, there were very few bottles released. It’s also fairly well documented that no Terrantez survived the twin oidium/phylloxera scourges – so where did all that 1899 originate from?

Incidentally that 1899 is a magnificent wine – even if the label (?stencil) is problematic, the contents are certainly old, certainly madeira – and certainly one of the finest wines I’ve consumed!

[Robin Garr]

[The following was received from Alan Gardner – a lapsed member of WLDG, who retains a great interest in Madeira – and who just discovered that his old ID and password no longer work]

Please tell Alan that I would be delighted to sort this out. Ask him to give me a yell at robingarr (at) GMail.com, and I'm sure we can get his ID waxed, polished and the tank filled.

However, as a non-vinifera vine [Jacquez] is banned from EU quality wines, and is not allowed in the wine known as Madeira after Madeira joined the EU and has been phased out.

It is not only banned from quality wines as a non-vinifera variety, but it looks like it is is exceptionally and explicitly banned from all wine production, which presumably means the production of anything sold as wine.

It is now rather old and may have been superseded, but COUNCIL REGULATION (EC) No 1493/1999 of 17 May 1999 on the common organisation of the market in wine, Article 19.1, reads:

Member States shall classify vine varieties for the production of wine. All classified varieties shall belong to the specifies Vitis vinifera or come from a cross between this species and other species of the genus Vitis. The following varieties may not be included in the classification:
— - Noah
— - Othello
— - Isabelle
— - Jacquez
— - Clinton
— - Herbemont.

What these 6 varieties did to suffer such ignominy, I do not know.

Not too long ago things were much simpler, you had the “best suited” grapes; “good” grapes; “moderate” grapes and “not so good” grapes for any “desired” style of wine. Today in the EU you have “recommended” grapes and “authorized” grapes. When it comes to Madeira if a grape variety is named (and it’s not just any of the “recommended” or “authorized” grape varieties only a small handful of the so called “noble varieties” for Madeira production) on the label, 85% has to be from that grape variety. But however over time the “name” of the “dominant” grape variety began to represent a “particular style” of Madeira.

Salute