WTN: Day of the Jakkels

[David M. Bueker]

2003 Fairview Jakkels Fontein Shiraz (South Africa)
Served blind (double decanted an hour prior to serving by the host), this was a real stunner, with a very integrated and elegant palate presence and complex aromatics. There were a lot of different elements to the bouquet/flavors, but the wine was so beautifully integrated that it seemed a shame to try to pluck out each one as a separate piece. I just really enjoyed drinking this, and was stunned when the bag came off. Maybe not a ton of additional upside here, but it should drink well for quite a while as the balance was spot on.

[Robin Garr]

Wow! I could definitely drink that.

David (and Peter May, if he's looking on), I've always been intrigued by South Africa embracing the Australian use of "Shiraz." Do Oz and South African Shiraz tend to be more similar or different in style, from each other and from European Syrah? Or is the field too complicated to boil down as simply as that?

[Jenise]

I know, you didn't ask me, but: my opinion? Other than the fact that they're both in the Southern Hemisphere, there's no reason I can taste for South Africa to use the term. No idea why they do. South African wines are often identifiable in blind tastings because they are fruitier than American or Australian wines, yet (usually) very old school/French in the way they emphasize complexity and savory facets. One would very rarely mistake an Afrikaaner for an Aussie.

[David M. Bueker]

Didn't South African wine become available on the wider market about the time Aussie Shiraz was the hottest thing on the planet?

[Jenise]

I'd say no, but I'm not sure. South African wine didn't become very available here until after the end of apartheid in the late 90's where the Spectator's big 'discovery' of Australian wines occurred about ten years earlier. I know an importer (who is South African himself) who will know. I'll get an answer.

[Robin Garr]

I know, you didn't ask me

Actually I was asking everyone.

[Jenise]

Okay, the answer is... "I don't know!" Oliver, with his solid Afrikaaner accent in tact though he now lives in Orange County, California, and has been selling South African wines for 20 years, didn't have a clue. But we were able to piece this together: though some producers do, yes, use 'shiraz', many use 'syrah', especially those whose model is a more European style wine. I own some Molliieux syrahs, for example. Also, in the last two decades, a few older producers have switched over to 'syrah' so 'syrah' is becoming more common.