Domaine des Baumard 2000 Savennières "Trie Spéciale"
This was a (helluva) backup bottle for a 1999 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne that, on the basis of other reports, I fully expected to be premoxed, and it didn't disappoint, disappointingly.
I recall this Baumard in its youth being painfully intense; now, it's still very concentrated and structured, but it doesn't make you reflexively suck in your cheeks. (Not those cheeks. Well, maybe those too.) Ripe grapefruit and musk melon, assertively dry, showing more honeyed apple over the course of the bottle. Remains bright and alive and long, and I'd guess will continue to develop. Delicious, and a great match with sautéed skate wing with brown butter, shallots, capers, piquillo peppers, and sherry vinegar ( though I suppose I could have just used the Burgundy).