Kir-Yianni Ramnista Xinomavro 2012
c.20€; 14% abv; 100% Xinomavro; PDO Naoussa
Of the major autochthonous Greek grapes, Xinomavro has, from my limited sampling, been most to my taste. It has good structure and sometimes seems almost like Nebbiolo in its mix of tannin and bright red acidic berry fruit - though I've never had a Xinomavro as wonderfully aromatic as a Nebbiolo.
This Kir-Yianni is aged for 14 months in oak of which c.15% was new. And it does show a little bit. Not so much that most people will be bothered by it and not so much that it causes me great distress, but enough that I wish it had all been in old wood.
But other than that, it's a very tasty wine. Underneath that slightly woody patina there's a wonderful bright lingonberry aroma. The tart berry flavours follow logically on the palate: it is tannic and acidic and shrill in a good way. I like structured wines; just have some fatty food or red meat with it and it transforms beautifully. Despite the wood, it's tasty enough that I'm tempted to put away a bottle or three for some years.