1996 Domaine Auguste Clape Cornas - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (1/3/2016)
I've been told by a Rhône expert that this was the last vintage with Auguste Clape fully in charge. Pierre's influence starts to show from 1997 in wines more suave and gracious but less traditionally typical. This wine was indeed more rugged and austere than those of its successors which I have opened. Colour beginning to get paler, I think, with slight tawny tints. Nose shy at first but opening up quickly to show aromas of sour cherry, grilled rare meat, leather and rusty metal with olive hints. The palate was savoury and smaller than I was expecting, medium bodied at most with a more matt texture than subsequent vintages, but like the nose it seemed to expand aromatically as the bottle emptied; it was well focussed and the fruit was still quite fresh integrating nicely the aromas from the nose with grainy minerals, still lively acidity and by now lightly tannic backbone. I will decant the next bottle. Very good.
2014 Domaine de la Charmoise Gamay Touraine Terroir des Silices - France, Loire Valley, Touraine (1/4/2016)
As always, this wine is thoroughly enjoyable and moreish but perhaps a touch more acidic than in 2013. Quite light bodied, lean and even a bit simplistic but so full of lively red fruit, crunchy minerals, mouth-watering acidity and nicely grippy finish with a friendly level of alcohol (12%) that it is hard to resist pouring out another glass. And at €6 it represents excellent QPR.
NV Champagne Lallier Champagne Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru - France, Champagne, Aÿ, Champagne (1/5/2016)
A lovely creamy and biscuity medium/light bodied BdeB with nice underlying gras, not quite bone dry but lively and good with zakouskis. Very good.
2000 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (1/5/2016)
An opulent, dark-hued and complex CndP, quite full bodied with rather candied dark fruit, some spice, smooth acidity and good ripe tannic structure supporting the finish. For my palate heavier and sweeter than my ideal and I preferred the '99. Very good though.
1999 Jean-Marc Millot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru (1/5/2016)
The first "serious" '99, which I have opened. At first a little reticent at c.15°C but opening up with air and a little more warmth to reveal a wine marginally less rich and definitely less sweet than the preceding Beaucastel and with Burgundian grace, fresh acidity and fine but still perceptible tannins. Time should bring more complexity and velvety texture. Very good.
NV Charles Pougeoise Champagne Brut Premier Cru - France, Champagne, Côte des Blancs, Champagne (1/5/2016)
I should have served this before the Lallier BdeB because in spite a higher dosage (11g/l v. 9g/l) it gave a subjectively dryer impression due to very lively acidity. Lean, well focussed with nice citrus fragrance. Good.
2012 Château Henri Bonnaud Palette Les Terrasses d'Aurélia - France, Provence, Palette (1/6/2016)
This was quite unlike the 2008 which I had about a year ago. At first both nose and palate were dominated by a strange aroma of quinine laced with a touch of urine. With some time and air, rose notes and red fruit came hesitantly forward but had to struggle to be perceived. Marked tannins too. Not quite as unpleasant as it may sound but weird and I wonder if it is not an "off" bottle? I will only find out when I open the second
2014 Domaine Grand Côtes du Jura - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura (1/7/2016)
Medium- bodied with nice citrus and white fruit, minerality, underlying "gras", lively acidity and a creamy touch where initial harsh caramel hints receded after taking some lobster bisque and assorted chesses. Good and may acquire more subtlety with time.
2001 Domaine de l'Oratoire St Martin Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne Haut-Coustias - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne (1/10/2016)
This was a mystery bottle. According to my CT inventory, I had none left but the label clearly says 2001. Up with the best Haut-Coustias and like the previous bottles, medium bodied and classically shaped with round ripe cherry fruit with a kirsch backbone and fresh acidity but with no trace of alcoholic burn. Very good
2014 Claude Lafond Reuilly Les Rives de l'Arnon - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Reuilly (1/13/2016)
Three further months in the bottle have attenuated the cat's pee notes making for a more civilised but still invigorating and characterful Reuilly. Good QPR at €7 and I will buy more if I can find it.
2014 Laurent Mabileau Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil (1/14/2016)
This is the second Loire valley 2014 on successive days where the second bottle is significantly better than the first two or three months ago. The raw resinous note of which I complained in the previous bottle has all but disappeared allowing undisturbed enjoyment of its medium- body, lively red fruit, minerals and underlying roundness with fresh acidity. Such an improvement in such a short time makes me think that the previous bottle must have been flawed somehow. Good now.
2014 Marc Parcé Collioure - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Collioure (1/15/2016)
For my palate, some of the best whites on the Mediterranean rim are being made in Roussillon from Grenache gris. Unlike most from Marsanne, Roussanne and Vermentino, they add freshness, minerality and slightly saline backbone to attractive white and citrus fruit, some Med herbs and underlying generosity. This Collioure was no exception but was at this stage lighter and less complex than, say, the excellent whites from Marjorie Gallet (Roc des Anges). It carried its 14% alcohol gracefully and was a good pairing for red tuna steak in a honey sweetened sauce. Good wine and fair price at €11 for Collioure. I regret that this was the last bottle available in the Foire aux Vins at our local Carrefour branch when I called.