WTN: Tommaso Bussola 2004 Valpolicella Classico "BG"

In a local shop yesterday I saw a recent vintage of Bussola's other Valpolicella, the Classico Superiore "TB," which has never really been my style; but it reminded me that I'd recently dug out our last 2004 "BG," the old-fashioned 12-percenter -- unwooded and bottled young and supposedly meant to be consumed quickly and inattentively, but which I'd found aged in interesting ways, based on earlier experiences with some vintages from the late 90s. This bottle was no exception. The initial nose was of pipe-tobacco. It still had some liveliness, with a palate of dried fruit initially dominated but not smothered by a characteristic and pleasant smokiness (this is what had struck me about those earlier aged bottles). Over the next couple of hours the fruit came forward, the smoke receded, and the wine softened, almost to the point of collapsing; but by the last glasses it seemed to have come back into focus for long enough to make me wish we had more. Won't be to everybody's taste, but not bad for a $14.24 bottle. I wish this bottling were easier to find in this market!

[And: long time no see, y'all!]

[David M. Bueker]

Welcome back Patchen!

Love the aroma of pipe tobacco. The wine sounds lovely.

[Robin Garr]

Welcome back, Patchen! Seeing you regularly on Facebook is not quite the same as kicking back in these cozy environs and opening a bottle or two. Good to see you here!

Thanks, guys! Nice to see so many familiar names as I browse the forum. Looking forward to hanging out with and learning from you all again...

Wow! A blast from the past.

Thanks for the note. And seems like a very nice wine from a modest price.

I'll join the throng welcoming you back.

Good note, and interesting as well in that I have been of late seeking out the less-to-no-oak styles of red wines, which are not all that easy to find.

The prevalent use of oak in reds has become so common, and commonly expected, that exploring those wine without that over-riding dominant factor---vanilla being the most prominent but not by any means the only one---is a major re-discovery for me.

When you don't rely on oak for your major structure, or at least being a major component, it is an unmasking of flavor and structure which I am finding much more appealling. Acidity, tannin and other structural elements become more significant and the fruit emerges in greater complexity, not just as fresh fruit but as dried fruit, raisiny fruit, candied fruit.

When I did the Fete du Malbec in Cahors a few years ago I tasted several hundred versions of Malbec blends. In one survey tasting we had a 'supermarket Cahors' with no wood, just stainless steel; an old-style massive long-aged malbec in old barrels; another massive one in primarily new barrels; and an outlier of malbec made and aged in specially fashioned terracotta amphorae buried in the ground.

Four radically different Cahors. And the new-oaked monster was the most "soupy" with masking flavors and aromas. The old-oak version was far superior. The non-oaked stainless steel actually came out as young and tender and fruity. But the amphorae version was the scene-stealer. Supple, fruity with great complexity, floral, softer tannins and structure with bite or acridity.

I think the common reliance these days on oak has perceptibly altered our essential tasting expectations for red wine. And not for the better.

I've seen your posts on Facebook but being older I'm not sure of the significance of that. I remember with pleasure crossing the border into Berkeley to break bread with you & Rahsaan. I'm still able once in awhile to acquire a visa so I can make personal contact with Jason L who still resides in that region. Nice to see you here.

I've been to Chicago and have seen Patchen and Andrea a few times---although after the incident of the knife-wielding-chef (and my wasn't that a big Wusthof she was waving at me) I have been somewhat reluctant to take his restaurant recommendations.

Ahh, the Savoy Truffle. Wendy Gilbert was the Wusthof-wielding chef, Hoke, and unfortunately she died back in 2004. There aren't a lot of eccentric places like that left in the Chicago restaurant world....

Maybe that's a good thing?

Ahh, the Savoy Truffle. Wendy Gilbert was the Wusthof-wielding chef, Hoke, and unfortunately she died back in 2004. There aren't a lot of eccentric places like that left in the Chicago restaurant world....

I recall she passed away---cancer, I believe. Shame; she was young and talented and quite a deft hand with a blade. The dinner we had was memorable---for the cuisine, I mean. She did a great job once I got through initiation. And there was stellar wine too. Mr. Trombley trucked in with his case of riesling, and Jenise's friend donated some lovely Bordeaux from her Chicago cellar to help make it a festive evening..

Hey, whaddaya know; after a little digging, I found my notes from that offline! November 7, 2002, I believe.... There wasn't a bad wine in the bunch:

Edmunds St. John 2000 Los Robles Viejos (white)
Reinhold Haart 2001 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Spätlese
Wolfberger 2000 GC Alsace Hengst Riesling
Gary Farrell 1995 RRV Merlot
Pichon-Longueville 1996 Pauillac
Château Palmer 1970 Margaux
Dönnhoff 2001 Oberhäuser Brücke Auslese
Suduiraut 1990 Sauternes

I'll join the throng welcoming you back.

Good note, and interesting as well in that I have been of late seeking out the less-to-no-oak styles of red wines, which are not all that easy to find.

The prevalent use of oak in reds has become so common, and commonly expected, that exploring those wine without that over-riding dominant factor---vanilla being the most prominent but not by any means the only one---is a major re-discovery for me.

When you don't rely on oak for your major structure, or at least being a major component, it is an unmasking of flavor and structure which I am finding much more appealling. Acidity, tannin and other structural elements become more significant and the fruit emerges in greater complexity, not just as fresh fruit but as dried fruit, raisiny fruit, candied fruit.

When I did the Fete du Malbec in Cahors a few years ago I tasted several hundred versions of Malbec blends. In one survey tasting we had a 'supermarket Cahors' with no wood, just stainless steel; an old-style massive long-aged malbec in old barrels; another massive one in primarily new barrels; and an outlier of malbec made and aged in specially fashioned terracotta amphorae buried in the ground.

Four radically different Cahors. And the new-oaked monster was the most "soupy" with masking flavors and aromas. The old-oak version was far superior. The non-oaked stainless steel actually came out as young and tender and fruity. But the amphorae version was the scene-stealer. Supple, fruity with great complexity, floral, softer tannins and structure with bite or acridity.

I think the common reliance these days on oak has perceptibly altered our essential tasting expectations for red wine. And not for the better.

I agree completely with this. There may be regions and varieties that do well with small new oak, but mostly I don't like it. With any classic Italian wine type I always prefer large barrels, or in some cases cement vessels.