Pieropan Soave Classico "Calvarino" 2013
70% Garganega, 30% Trebbiano; 12,5% abv; c.23€
The Calvarino vineyard bottling has always been my favourite Pieropan. The "basic" Soave can also be a delight; the oaky La Rocca is occasionally nice (especially when age blunts the worst edge off the oak). But Calvarino always seems just ideal. It has the richness and personality of a great wine and lacks any obfuscating oak sensations.
The 2013 seems to me a very nice Calvarino. I've seen some grumbling that it isn't up to its usual standard but I don't see that. I see it as a wine that makes a positive out of neutrality and transcends neutrality to become something interesting rather than boring - so it's just what all the other good Calvarinos have been.
The aromas are all neutral and mineral - it's like hay and S. Pellegrino mineral water. The palate has quite a bit of richness for what is IIRC a cooler year but still plays along to the theme of transcendent neutrality. Rich but good acidity with a really attractive slight grapefruit bitterness on the finish. I don't see what the grumbling was about. This is really tasty - and even more important, it's also fun.