with oysters, langoustes, scallops and giant shrimps –
2001 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru (12/24/2015)
Not quite so superb as La Forêt '95 of a few weeks ago but very fine with lovely harmonious bouquet of white fruit and biscuit and medium- bodied and long palate still showing peach and lemon together with fine flinty minerals, elegant but lively acidity and steely backbone which paired well with the food but I think that with, say, sole, barbue or turbot it would have been even better. Very good.

after light chocolate and passion fruit buche–
Cognac Paul Giraud – 1er Cru de Cognac « Napoléon »
This producer, recommended by a local caviste, was new to me but, in spite of Napoleon, was just as I like it, not dark, not heavy and not caramelised but a medium amber in colour, medium bodied, fragrant, pure and elegant with fine backbone. Very good.
Christmas Day:
with Zakouskis and foie gras (too salty) on brioche –
NV Jean-Noël Haton Champagne Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne (12/25/2015)
Attractive B de B champagne with white fruit and creamy biscuity touches. Good.

with starter consisting of terrine de Coquilles St.Jacques en épinards -
NV Bollinger Champagne Special Cuvée - France, Champagne (12/25/2015)
Classy Champagne with medium/full body, attractive white and citrus fruit, a touch of biscuit, lively acidity, fine bubble and firm backbone. Bolly's SC responds beautifully to several years of bottle ageing, which this one lacked, so it was still a bit simplistic. Already very good though.

with goose and a stuffing of mainly minced veal, pork and various herbs enhanced by truffle juice, Armagnac and ruby port –
1997 Maison Bertrand Ambroise Corton-Rognet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru (12/25/2015)
This bottle had a crumbly cork which may partially account for its being inferior to the previous. Most of the then description still applies –
"This is a robust and extracted Burgundy. I prefer more elegance and charm but this was very good of its kind and should please fans of this style. Colour was a still youthful deep red with hardly any bricking. Nose showed sour cherry on a steely background with ivy touches. Palate was full/medium bodied and savoury with dark sour cherry tinged fruit, touches of liquorice and chocolate, tangy acidity and a still tannic finish."
but the aromas seemed more shy and the whole smaller than I recalled and noted. Still quite good though.

and
1997 Domaine Philippe Charlopin-Parizot Charmes-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru (12/25/2015)
Lovely medium/full bodied Charmes-Chambertin singing full throatedly in its prime and living up to its charming name. Rich subtle Pinot fruit, good depth, velvety texture, minerals, early secondary development, fresh acidity and tannins resolved but leaving enough firmness on the decently long and kirsch sprinkled finish. Very good.

with Stilton followed by assorted chocolate dominated buches
2012 Hecht et Bannier Maury Vintage - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Maury (12/25/2015)
A delicious Maury VDN burgeoning with raspberry and blackberry tinged fruit also showing good minerals, lively acidity to complement the discreet sweetness and backbone. At least as good as Mas Amiel and, like that one, a perfect pairing with a chocolate based dessert. Very good.
Posted from CellarTracker
PS: Apologies for wrong vintage on the Charmes-Chambertin photo
