Hat Ranch Malbec is neither the teeth-staining black wine of Cahors nor the pretty but inconsequential Argentinean cuties, but somewhere in between. And in this case, in between is a very good place to be. Neither blockbuster nor plonk, Hat Ranch Malbec is an easily drinkable and highly enjoyable table wine, with some polished tannins, laudable fruit, and robust earthiness, more the Bordeaux style than the rugged, austere Cahors, one could say.
Tim Harless, Hat Ranch winemaker, sources the grapes from the Arena Valley Vineyard, estate vineyard of the Snake River Winery. 2011 was the first release, and the following 2012 showed it was not a one-trick-pony effort. It’s beginning to look like the Malbec grape has a promising future for the Snake River region, providing a sturdy platform for a rich, berry-laden red (think blackberry and boysenberry) that can handle moderate oak influence with style and flair. The Hat Ranch Malbec is a lovely example of the convergence of grape/place/person for good wine, and something worth seeking out.
