WTN: A Corsican take on Sangiovese (Niellucciu)

Sangiovese is cultivated in Corsica under the local name Niellucciu. In the last couple of years, I have opened three of these and very interesting (and original tasting for France) they are too, if not (these three) on quite the same level of the likes of Rancia, Fontalloro, Flaccianello, Brunello, etc. from Tuscany.

2013 Domaine de Torraccia Vin de Corse Porto Vecchio - France, Corsica, Vin de Corse Porto Vecchio (12/9/2014)
I don't know how this wine made from Niellucciu (AKA Sangiovese) is supposed to taste but I was disconcerted by a noticeable prickle, both visually and on the medium bodied palate. Positive features were freshness, conferred by lively acidity, and red fruit but less positive was a hint of sweetness which together with the prickle reminded me a bit of a fizzy fruit pop. Fair.

2011 Domaine d'E Croce (Yves Leccia) Patrimonio - France, Corsica, Patrimonio (9/21/2015)
I don't have a lot of experience of Corsican wine. This one is made from Nielluccio (aka Sangiovese) plus Grenache (10%) and it is tempting to compare it to Chianti. There is a definite family resemblance in this wine's freshness and lively acidity. The nose shows fresh red fruit with a pleasant fragrance and the body is just medium weight and the shape is quite lean but with attractive fruit and mineral expression and an overall impression of some finesse. I don't find Tuscan tang and vigour but like a good Chianti Classico I guess that it could benefit from some age. At c.€27, poor QPR compared with, say, Fèlsina's entry level or Riserva Chianti Classico but good wine.



2010 Domaine Gentile Patrimonio - France, Corsica, Patrimonio (11/3/2015)
I liked this better than Yves Leccia's 2011. It was more savoury, more mineral, more tangy with sharper focus, more backbone and more depth (more like good Chianti in fact!) whilst sharing the same fresh red fruit, fragrance, medium weight body and quite lean shape. Very good.

Posted from CellarTracker

This is first I've heard of Corsican "Sangiovese." Doing a little research, it sounds like the jury isn't yet unanimous on it being identical to Sangiovese - have they done DNA profiling, do you know?

It sounds to me like this is mostly a curiosity value wine, if Tuscany is doing it much better at much better prices . . . . but I'm still intrigued enough that I will keep an eye for it. Thanks!

Ryan, I think it would be worth your while to try and track down some Corsican Niellucciu. The prices of my Torraccia and E Croce represented poor QPR because I bought them at posh Paris wine merchants (Lavinia and Caves Legrand respectively). My son gifted me the Domaine Gentile and looking at the website of the store where he bought it, I see that the 2013 can be had for €18 which is about the same price as Fèlsina's entry level Chianto Classico which does not IMO outclass it.

Some Niellucciu cuvées can be more different from the Tuscan rendition than the Gentile, if my short TN from a Paris tasting a year ago can be believed.

The Leccia range from appellation Patrimonio was an experience of new Mediterranean flavours for me and I was particularly struck by the Nielluccio baased reds with their combination of red fruit with spice and tar notes. The Pietra Bianca 2010 cuvée (c€22) was particularly fine showing more elegance, structure and aromatic expression than the basic 2010 and 2007 cuvées.

The Leccia at the Paris tasting was Annette, Yves' sister, who now has a separate domaine. I guess that Pietra Bianca was getting closer in quality to the top Tuscans at a competitive price, to boot.

Ryan, I think it would be worth your while to try and track down some Corsican Niellucciu.

Agreed. The genetic connection to Sangiovese may be a curiosity, but I think of them as different wines. And much more different than even pinot noir in Burgundy vs. Loire vs. Alsace vs. Germany vs. Italy vs. New World locations and so on.

I am a big fan of these Corsican wines because they combine rich Mediterranean flavors with the structure and elegance that comes from being grown at higher elevations in the mountains. (I don't drink much from mainland France that is grown south of St Peray) My only problem with Corsican wines is that there haven't been enough of them available to do detailed investigation.

But of course YMMV.

Like Rahsaan, and for the same reasons, I enjoy many Corsican wines.

Ryan, I would suggest you check out the wines of E Prove from Domaine Maestracci in the Cap Corse (western slopes, mid island). They are Kermit Lynch wines so should be fairly accessible. The white is Vermentino (Rolle) and the red is Nielluciu. I also quite like their Rose. The wines are crisp, lively with acidity, show some minerality...and quite honestly, I savor them because they are to me like the wines of Italy before the craze for jamminess, over-ripe fruit and excess took hold.

But then I like wines that are not built as blockbusters, that can be used as aperitifs or even cocktail wines and are tuned to go with foods, not as contenders but as companions.

Sounds exactly like the sort of thing I would like Hoke. Will be seeking them out - perhaps as part of a Sangiovese "around the world" tasting for my group.

I am a big fan of these Corsican wines because they combine rich Mediterranean flavors with the structure and elegance that comes from being grown at higher elevations in the mountains. (I don't drink much from mainland France that is grown south of St Peray)

This is the key to the appeal of these wines from Niellucciu. They are fresher with livelier acidity than most of the Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre dominated wines from the French and Spanish Mediterranean rim which are often heavier and more overtly alcoholic.

Very informative conversation. Did some checking to see whats in my area, all I have come up with is 2 wines from Abbatucci.

Very informative conversation. Did some checking to see whats in my area, all I have come up with is 2 wines from Abbatucci.

FWIW Abbatucci is one of the top rated producers in Corsica in the RVF's Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France 2016. Organic and using native varieties but expensive.

Very informative conversation. Did some checking to see whats in my area, all I have come up with is 2 wines from Abbatucci.

FWIW Abbatucci is one of the top rated producers in Corsica in the RVF's Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France 2016. Organic and using native varieties but expensive.

Echo that. The Abbatucci I've had has been impressive.

According to wine-searcher it is not available in the U.S.A.

According to wine-searcher it is not available in the U.S.A.

Bob's in Canada.

Kermit brings in Abbatucci