Still hooked on Albarino!

Nothing delights me more than seeing a new Albarino on the shelves downtown. Not a great choice I might add but always of interest...here`s a new one I just sampled over 2 nights.

2014 Bodegas Zarate Rias Baixas Val do Salnes, Galicia Spain.

$25 Cdn, good natural cork, 12.5% alc, organic, granite soils with extended lees contact.

The color is pale lemony and on the nose I find lemon, lime, herbs and a mineral tone (as to be expected).
Initial entry thought is dry, great acidity with a mineral structure. Still had some enamel on my teeth after 2 glasses! Quite a crisp style with added grapefruit on day 2. On both days I noted a slight effervescence which was appealing to my palate. Good finish all round..apple, lemon peel but not much in the way of apricot or peach. Might be worthwhile putting a bottle aside to see where it ends up but guess drink now.

Bob, I too am a fan of Rias Baixas Albariño but it is almost impossible to find here. The last three I bought came from a non-French internet supplier. IMO it fills roughly the same gastronomic space as Muscadet, i.e. with seafood, but perhaps a bit fruitier. As you know some, Muscadet is eminently age-worthy (10 yeras+) and can acquire a lot of complexity. I have no idea whether the Albariño grape has the same potential as Melon de Bourgogne in the Nantes area. Perhaps someone (you? ) could put one aside for 5 years or so to see what happens.

That is a very good question Tim. Maybe we might get some idea from those in the know here?

Seems like some albarino/alvarinho might age well, but I suspect the jury is still out. The question would be how many of these wines have been made with the expectation that they will be cellared. I think until recently (meaning 10 years or so) this wasn't a consideration. There are now producers like Do Ferreiro in Rias Baixas or Soalheiro in Melgaco (Portugal) which aim to produce ageworthy wines. Just recently I was given a glass of Rias Baixas albarino in a tapas bar which was delightful, and I was surprised to learn it was from the 2007 vintage - it was very fresh and young (I can't remember the producer, but it was not a well known one). And at a visit to Soalheiro, I tasted some older vintages which were evolving nicely. In the US I've also had some dire older bottles, but I suspect storage was a problem somewhere along the line. The oldest one I have is a Soalheiro from 2009, kept at 55F from release, and, if I can keep my mitts off it, I hope see how it evolves.

Joe, I am always so happy to hear from you and get your opinions. For research sake, I am going to buy another Zarate and put it away to see how it develops. Talk again soon eh..oh we have some recent vintages of Monte Real here in Edmonton. Da..Da!

[Jenise]

I have enjoyed many albarinos, but I have to say that, in blind tastings, positively identifying something as albarino because it tastes like something I know and would recognize every time eludes me, instead I suspect albarino as a last-resort guess because the white in front of me has refreshing acidity but clearly isn't any of the other usual suspects. Just this morning I came across this tasting note of mine on a '13 Codax someone brought to a South African tasting because she couldn't find a South African wine: "Sulfur, passion fruit, white grapefruit, slate; doesn't taste like chenin blanc but it doesn't taste like anything else, either."

And in fact, that description of white grapefruit and passion fruit are the two things I wrote down last night about a delicious white Bandol we had--no connection.

So here's my question to you: what markers do YOU look for in albarino?

Good question, Jenise. I'm fond of Albarino but am unsure about markers tasted blind. I may have a California Albarino on hand to try and will ponder the question the next time I open one. Looking at past notes I noticed a greenish tint to the color of the wine on several occasions. Lemon seemed to be a repeated flavor element but white peach was only noted on one occasion. Minerality and pungency were also noted. One I found similar to a Gruner Veltliner or Sauvignon Blanc so might have guessed those varieties blind. Also, a couple of the wines were not 100% Albarino grapes but only 70% or so.

Seems like some albarino/alvarinho might age well, but I suspect the jury is still out. The question would be how many of these wines have been made with the expectation that they will be cellared. I think until recently (meaning 10 years or so) this wasn't a consideration. There are now producers like Do Ferreiro in Rias Baixas or Soalheiro in Melgaco (Portugal) which aim to produce ageworthy wines. Just recently I was given a glass of Rias Baixas albarino in a tapas bar which was delightful, and I was surprised to learn it was from the 2007 vintage - it was very fresh and young (I can't remember the producer, but it was not a well known one). And at a visit to Soalheiro, I tasted some older vintages which were evolving nicely. In the US I've also had some dire older bottles, but I suspect storage was a problem somewhere along the line. The oldest one I have is a Soalheiro from 2009, kept at 55F from release, and, if I can keep my mitts off it, I hope see how it evolves.

With your comments in my mind Joe, I splurged out on 2 bottles of the 2014 Soalheriro Alvarinho...$24 Cdn but I get a discount .
I understand that the Primeiras Vinhas has seen some oak ($40) but am happy with the regular bottle. I might be tempted to put one aside for scientific reasons!
Just found this on Jamie Goodes website>

http://www.wineanorak.com/portugal/vinh ... lheiro.htm

So, lets go next door and try an Alvarinho from Portugal..yup drift time! The last two vintages of Pouco Comum Vinho Verde from Quinta da Lixa were not that exceptional but the 2013 is really looking good.
Was it a vintage issue..can never remember these facts? Forumites might remember my tasting note last month on the very tasty 2014 Soalherio?

So, lets go next door and try an Alvarinho from Portugal..yup drift time! The last two vintages of Pouco Comum Vinho Verde from Quinta da Lixa were not that exceptional but the 2013 is really looking good.
Was it a vintage issue..can never remember these facts? Forumites might remember my tasting note last month on the very tasty 2014 Soalherio?

Quinta da Lixa is a fairly commercial operation and most of their stuff is fairly inexpensive. Having said that, I've been enjoying the 2014 Vinho Verde from this producer (probably mostly Loureiro, with some Trajadura or Avesso, IIRC), which is available BTG in a couple places I frequent. I've tried a few vintages of the Pouco Comum and liked some better than others, but I don't recall which ones. This wine used to be a Vinho Regional Minho, not Vinho Verde, because Lixa is not in the 'approved' zone for Vinho Verde Alvarinho, which is up around Moncao and Melgaco, next to the Minho River. I think they recently bent the rules to allow the VV designation on Alvarinho grown elsewhere in the region.

Hi Joe..good to see you as usual. The 2014 vintage for Vinho Verde might be a tough one with maybe too much acidity for some here. Did pick up some 2011 Ameal when in the store downtown but different grape variety!
Soalheiro..am going to age some to see how it evolves.

Agent was pouring an oak aged Soalheiro last evening downtown. Have to say I was not too impressed, thought the finish was rather short. There was also a couple of sparkling Alvarinhos on the shelf..anyone sampled one of late? Joe?

Agent was pouring an oak aged Soalheiro last evening downtown. Have to say I was not too impressed, thought the finish was rather short. There was also a couple of sparkling Alvarinhos on the shelf..anyone sampled one of late? Joe?

I have yet to try an oak aged Alvarinho that really impressed me. Probably the best one was the Muros de Melgaco from Anselmo Mendes, but even then I prefer his cheaper, lees aged bottling, Contacto. If you ever find yourself in Melgaco, there is a tasting room sponsored by the producers, the Solar do Alvarinho, where you can sample many wines from the area, and have a snack or purchase the wines that you like. This is a good place to taste some of the oak aged versions alongside other styles and make a risk free judgement.

BTW, I've only had a handful of sparkling Alverinhos, and the Soalheiro is a good example. Had it BTG at the excellent Porto restaurant O Paparico, which has a great Portuguese wine list, and the owner is quite keen to serve just about anything within reason by the glass.

Not sure I've had any oak-aged alvarinho, but I've enjoyed Fefinanes and do Ferreieo's barrel Albarinos, so not like it's not possible for the variety to do well with oak.