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WTN: Gauby,Lascombes,Jamet,Beaucastel VV,Alliet Chinon,etc.

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Tim York

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WTN: Gauby,Lascombes,Jamet,Beaucastel VV,Alliet Chinon,etc.

by Tim York » Thu Oct 08, 2015 9:50 am

Here are TNs on my last fortnight's consumption. I am now digging into my 95s; Alliet's Chinon VV and Jamet's Côte Rôtie were excellent but Bouley's Volnay was badly "off". Ch. Lascombes 1990, like previous bottles, was also very good, in spite of the estate's being supposedly in a down phase at the time. I continue to have difficulty in coming to terms with Rhône whites as my TN on Beaucastel's VV 2000 shows. Verdignan '01, Branger's Muscadet and Davenne's Saint-Bris were all bought at this autumn's Foires aux Vins and fine QPR they are.

2006 Domaine Gauby Côtes du Roussillon Villages Vieilles Vignes - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (10/6/2015)
Without the label to guide me, I don't think that I would have identified this wine as from Roussillon or indeed from anywhere on the French Mediterranean rim. Though quite complex and no lightweight, its dominant character was of fruity (mainly cherry) and mineral brightness with a moreish elegance which led to the bottle's emptying in a flash. I liked this even more than a bottle of 2003 from last December with the help of some delicious lamb. Very good.

PS: Varietal composition -
- Grenache noir 25 % Vignes de 55 ans
- Carignan 35 % Vignes de 125 ans
- Mourvèdre 10 % Vignes de 25 ans
- Syrah 30 % Vignes de 20 ans

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1990 Château Lascombes - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (10/5/2015)
Although at the time Lascombes had a mediocre reputation, my purchase in the mid-90s of a dozen 1990 for <€20/bottle was one of my best buys ever. Right from the start the wine drank graciously and there was never a dud bottle. I thought I had consumed my last bottle in 2008 but found this one when moving house. It was still drinking beautifully yesterday. Colour showed discreet amber tints. The nose showed a lovely and still lively Margaux fragrance with hints of violet and raspberry together with some fine leather with just a suspicion of rusty metal hinting that the best days were past. Not a big wine on the palate but harmonious showing beautifully “sweet” and bright fragrance with good depth, structure and a gentle crescendo to a long gracious finish. Very good but drink up if any left.

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2014 Branger Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Grande Réserve Grand Fief - France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine (10/4/2015)
An exhilarating Muscadet which went well with moules marinières. Brightly focussed, medium/light bodied, fruit tinged sea breeze aromas, citrus fruit, lots of minerals, crisp acidity and saline backbone. Good+ and excellent QPR at <€4.

2000 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Cuvée Roussanne Vieilles Vignes - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (10/2/2015)
This wine has several "grand vin" attributes but, for my taste, is spoilt by a lack of freshness; the same goes for nearly all other CndP white which I have had, apart from 2/3 years old Beau VV '97 and Clos des Papes 01, and also for most white Hermitage. Colour was quite deep gold. There were, however, no signs of oxidation and the nose was well developed with aromas of mango, quince and fine wax polish for antiques. The palate was full, rich and burnished still showing some fruit with aromas similar to the nose upfront and mid palate as well as nuts and a little honey leading to some gently bitter backbone towards the finish BUT acidity was hardly perceptible. Fans of this style may have a much higher rating than mine. For me these wines should be drunk very young but I cellared my bottles being misguided by "experts" who like their showing with age.
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1995 Philippe Alliet Chinon Vieilles Vignes - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (10/1/2015)
Having poured an over the hill Volnay '95 down the sink yesterday, I approached this with caution. I should not have doubted that Philippe Alliet was a guarantee of health. Colour showed little signs of age. Nose and aromas on the palate were a bit shy at first but opened up quickly to show lively plum fruit in a still quite primary condition with touches of wet leather. The palate was medium+ bodied and showed the usual Alliet full fruit, concentration and roundness together with still fresh acidity, mineral touches and more hints of wet leather, which I love when in the background like this. Tannins were well resolved but still gave enough firmness to support a quite long finish. Very good.

1995 Réyane et Pascal Bouley Volnay - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay (9/30/2015)
Maybe I was a little hasty in consigning this bottle to the sink on the basis of cabbage like aromas and thin texture. A little later the remains in a glass showed some signs of life with some attractive cherry notes but the texture remained lean and the cabbage still perceptible on the nose. However there is no doubt that we enjoyed the substitute bottle from Fronton a lot more.

PS: I have unearthed my TN on this wine from 2011 where it seems that bottle was actually worse. I described the "off" aromas then as cheesy which IMO is one step worse in undesirable stink.

2011 Bernard Magrez Toro Paciencia - Spain, Castilla y León, Toro (9/29/2015)
This wine was almost exactly what I was expecting for the combination of Spain, Tempranillo and Bernard Magrez. Full/medium bodied, sweet fruit, thick texture, smooth acidity, ripe tannins with underlying notes of molasses, dry caramel and alcoholic burn (15%). We chose this to go with a dish enlivened by a very peppery and spicy tomato sauce and this was a good pairing because it attenuated the wine's sweetness, lightened its texture and obscured the molasses, alcohol and caramel. Once the dish was finished, we did not want any more of the wine. I can imagine this configuration may be popular in some quarters but it is not my thing. However I have had far worse in that style.

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2001 Château Verdignan - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc (9/28/2015)
This '01 was more evolved than my memory and notes of my last '96 two years ago. Colour was quite deep red with some tawny at the rim. The nose was perhaps its best feature with very attractive claret aromas of red fruit with slight green herbaceous edge and balsamic hints. The palate was smaller than my recollection of other Verdignans but quite round and initially showed oxidative touches which were obscured as the attractive fruit and aromas opened up. Tannins were almost completely resolved but there was still some firmness supporting the finish. Good wine but not for the long haul, I think, and remarkable QPR at €8,50.
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2014 Clotilde Davenne Saint-Bris - France, Burgundy, Côtes d'Auxerre, Saint-Bris (9/27/2015)
No prizes for identifying Sauvignon blanc but hard, for me, to find anything which differentiates it from the central Loire. Pale colour, expressive nose full of gooseberry and citrus tinged aromatics, medium/light refreshing palate with nice purity of fruit, crisp moreish acidity, minerals and some saline backbone. Good+ wine and fair QPR at €8.
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1995 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie Côte Brune - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie (9/26/2015)
A beautiful harmonious Côte Rôtie. Still quite youthful colour. Expressive nose with cherry and fragrant flower touches. Medium bodied with classically shaped palate showing greatest intensity at the rear of the mouth then gently falling off with fragrance lasting a long time. All the usual fine CR flavours were there well integrated and in perfect harmony together with a silky texture and I guess slightly more roundness and depth than the regular bottling which I haven't had. Excellent.

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Tim York
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Gauby,Lascombes,Jamet,Beaucastel VV,Alliet Chinon,e

by David M. Bueker » Thu Oct 08, 2015 7:18 pm

Thanks Tim.

I am with you on Beaucastel Blanc. I do not get it. I have been told that more time/more air fixes everything, but after numerous bottles I remain unconvinced.
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