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WTN: Three WA wineries: Obelisco, Guardian and Efeste

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WTN: Three WA wineries: Obelisco, Guardian and Efeste

by Jenise » Sat Sep 26, 2015 2:33 pm

Guardian has a fun story--a wine-crazy police detective meets a wine-crazy reporter and they start a winery. The names playfully reflect aspects of both their careers. When we were there, they had just learned that attempts to place their wines in D.C. had not been successful--you'd think names like "Informant" would go over big there, but no. The house style is consistent across the line and BIG: big fruit, big structure, new oak everywhere and probably not holding a lot back for the future. More Lee Marvin than Cary Grant.

Obelisco is the Cary Grant. Sophisticated, elegant wines that I loved, and a sister winery to David Arthur of Napa Valley. There's kind of an Egyptian thing going on with the proprietary names. Tasting here renewed my optimism for the future of Washington wine.

Efeste was another interesting stop. They really catch a Sauvignon Blanc lover's attention when they make two, not one but two, Sauvignon Blancs and then name them Sauvage and Feral. I've had Ferals in the past but this was my first exposure to their line-up. Unfortunately, they were pouring mostly or all 2011's in their reds, and the wines were a bit bitter and green. I didn't bother to list all the wines I tasted--it was an unusually tough vintage, so no point.

2012 Obelisco Reisling
German nose, dusty, dry, nose more complex than the palate.

2014 Obelisco Cabernet Sauvignon Rose
Watermelon, rhubarb, and a little dusty. Loved this.

2012 Obelisco Syrah
Vinegar nose but great on the palate, grippy tannins from new oak.

2011 Obelisco Estate Malbec Obelisco Estate Vineyard Red Mountain
Resisted tasting at the winery because I just don't care for malbec. The Cahors style works far better than the Argentinian, but neither moves me and the few WA ones I've tasted even less so. So no, no, not for me...well okay if you insist...really, this is malbec? Can't be, because this is so good! I bought a bottle to commemorate the moment.

We also tasted a 2011 Merlot that was exceptional considering the vintage, and an extremely good 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon named Nefer II. Oddly I wrote down nothing about them--but essentially there was nothing here that I didn't find generally exceptional--this winery will gain recognition as a top producer.

2012 Obelisco Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 'Electrum' Obelisco Estate Vineyard Red Mountain
Their top-of-the-line Cabernet. Elegant fruit, excellent structure, uncommonly sophisticated. Black cherry, tobacco, vanilla bean. A stunner. Purchased several.

2014 Guardian Cellars Sauvignon Blanc Angel Red Mountain
Ten weeks of new French Oak gives this rich, slightly tropical white a needed dimension of spice. But, too heavy for my tastes.

2014 Guardian Cellars Chardonnay Entrapment Conner Lee Vineyard Columbia Valley
Toasty and ripe over-the-top "I am an American" style; spends seven months on 100% new French Oak. Hot finish. (Alcohol 14.2% per the bottle, but it whacks like a bit more.) $30.

2012 Guardian Cellars Chalk Line Columbia Valley Red Blend
Basically a Bordeaux blend with syrah, made and priced to be an everyday drinker while you're waiting on the other guys. Sees less new oak than it's brethren but enough to sport Guardian's signature intense, big oak style with black and blue fruit, tobacco, herb, et.

2012 Guardian Cellars The Wanted Columbia Valley Red Bordeaux Blend
Guardian's Right banker: mostly CF and Mer with pinches of CS and PV. 14.5% alc. Big and intense with around 80% new French oak. Much more open than the bottle we had a month ago. $37

2012 Guardian Cellars The Informant Columbia Valley Syrah Blend
One of my favorites in the Guardian lineup despite the 15.4% alc (not as evident here as on some others with lower numbers). Blue and black fruit with roasted meats and arid climate roadside shrubs, good body but also the acidity to finish light and lively.

2012 Guardian Cellars Gun Metal Columbia Valley Red Bordeaux Blend
Guardian's Left bank wine: 55% CS, 31% Mer, 11% CF and 3% PV aged 20 months on 80% new French oak. Surprisingly approachable for a wine so young, dense and intense. Blackberry, blueberry, black coffee, rosemary and red-dirt earthiness. Raw alcohol and oak need time to integrate. $39.

2013 Efeste Sauvignon Blanc 'Feral' Evergreen Vineyard Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley
Probably the first wine I've had officially labeled with the new 'Ancient Lakes' appellation. Lacks the overt grassiness of the one previous vintage I had (and loved), but it leans in that direction with clean, refreshing, crisp green fruit. Very good.

2013 Efeste Sauvignon Blanc 'Sauvage' Boushey Vineyards Yakima Valley
A classic Sauvignon blanc. Melon fruit with green beans and a bit of grass. This wine is more proof that Washington state producers have really upped their game with this grape. Very good.

2013 Efeste Riesling Evergreen Vineyard Columbia Valley
A superb new world reisling that made me consider buying one for David Bueker. Doesn't apologize for not being German, but neither does it try to be overtly American. En pointe reisling nose with coconut and ginger, rich on the palate but very dry.

2014 Efeste Rosé Columbia Valley Rosé Blend
76/24 Mourvedre/Grenache blend. A medium pink wine with forward minerality and a nice Bandol/animal-hit of Mourvedre on the nose.

2011 Efeste Nana Red Columbia Valley Red Blend
60/40 Merlot/Cab franc blend. Cab franc is really dominating right now (though Merlot in this vintage could be on the green side as well) with green notes and tobacco. Good structure and finish.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Three WA wineries: Obelisco, Guardian and Efeste

by JC (NC) » Sun Sep 27, 2015 6:55 pm

Thanks, Jenise, for the report on wineries that are new to me.
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Re: WTN: Three WA wineries: Obelisco, Guardian and Efeste

by Jenise » Mon Sep 28, 2015 12:49 pm

Thanks, JC. Now that I know that only 4% of WA wines ever get sold outside of the state, it feels almost futile to post such things, but nonetheless I put it out there just in case. You're one of the few in this forum who has actually visited our wine region.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Three WA wineries: Obelisco, Guardian and Efeste

by Brian K Miller » Tue Sep 29, 2015 5:04 pm

It's sorta like New York wines. I love RAVINES Dry Riesling and would be interested in trying some of the cold climate reds, but they don't get out here to California.

Heck, even the Washington wines don't get down here very much! I think I've had L'Ecole 41 Merlot (have to confess it was pretty much a "meh" wine for me) and Leonetti (More meh....I did not really understand the kudos, to be honest), but I am interested in trying others!
...(Humans) are unique in our capacity to construct realities at utter odds with reality. Dogs dream and dolphins imagine, but only humans are deluded. –Jacob Bacharach
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Re: WTN: Three WA wineries: Obelisco, Guardian and Efeste

by Jenise » Tue Sep 29, 2015 6:46 pm

In general I find L'Ecole's reds rather meh--never bad, never great. The house style seems overall a bit subdued, though I often like the whites. Leonetti's house style might not work for you--it didn't for me until I visited the winery on an open-house afternoon and got to taste from the line-up over and over. They're softer and the structure is subtle--they are in the Italian tradition--but by the end of the day I was a fan. I'd point you to Obelisco. We visited two other wineries I haven't written up yet that I would also highly recommend to you, Avennia and Barrage. Avennia I'm confident you'd like. But Barrage is probably a love-hate thing. If you appreciate the dust on wines from the Rutherford bench--I love it!--then Barrage is something you'd enjoy. Every single wine they make has it, even the chardonnay, so I'm thinking it's winemaking not terroir that's the cause of it, but heck I don't really know. I just know I loved the wines.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov

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