Our Bordeaux group met at the Gander last night for a visit to the appellation of Margaux.
Some snacks- shrimp toast and “brisket tater tots”
2000 Raveneau “Montmains” Chablis 1er
Honied, mature, a nutty bit of oxidation, not dead but lacking in verve. B-/C+
2004 Pavillon Blanc du Margaux
I was surprised how much I liked this, lively, citrus and apple, a little lanolin, nicely balanced. B+
Raw Sea Trout with lardo
1976 Chateau Palmer
Nice surprise, lead pencil, red fruit, some dirt. B
1978 Chateau Margaux
This was quite funky at first, seemed to clean up, but a retaste later was a roll in the barnyard. Soft , floral, plummy. A B while we tasted, later taste was too much for me.
Duck confit, gnocchi, and chanterelles wtth a really intense mushroom brodo,
1983 Ch. Rauzan-Segla
Cigarbox, sweet fruit, a pointe, very nice. B+
1986 Ch. Rauzan-Segla
Double-decanted. First bottle corked, this bottle had only been standing a day or so, but poured clean. A little extra tangy when first served, fills out with time, cassis and black cherry with leather and earth, good length. A-
Crispy branzino wth sweetbreads & creamed kale
1988 Chateau Margaux
This is very ‘88, tannin and a bit stern/brooding. But there’s some elegance for the vintage, and I am surprised how much I like B+/A-
1989 Ch. Palmer
My WOTN. Elegant, balanced, complete. Heady mix of dark fruits, flowers, and spice. A/A-
Tubetti with veal cheek in a foie gras sauce
1995 Ch. Margaux
More open than the ‘96, rich and ripe, very nice. A-
1996 Ch. Margaux
This is my candidate for an eventual A. A bit in its shell but you can sense the power underneath, its a stereotype but iron fist in velvet glove. B+ for now
sousvide pork with potatoes and black truffle
1996 Chateau Palmer
Somehow I didn’t write anything for this one, but thought good if young.,
1996 Rauzan-Segla
corked
Since we had the big meat dish arriving with only one wine, I pulled my backup wine, and Ramon did the same
1988 Rauzan-Segla
Another somewhat sturdy ‘88, still a bit of tannin, but nice briary fruit. B+/B
1995 Malescot St Exupery
Pretty open right off the bat, plummier fruit, a little vanilla. B+/B
Really nice group, good wines, excellent service , great food (I think everyone liked last course the least, the sousvide made the single-source pork taste a bit like luncheon loaf, otherwise everything was great).
Group voting (3/2/1 system)
1989 Palmer - 18
1995 Margaux 17
1996 Margaux 6
1986 Rausan Segla 4
1978 Margaux 4
1988 Margaux 1
1983 Rausan Segla 1
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.