This year so far has not left me with much time or energy for writing many notes, let alone getting around to typing them up, given pursuing (and getting) my new faculty position, selling a house, moving, and all that. Ironically, even with my new responsibilities starting in less than two weeks, I think that will actually be calmer than the last 8 months, so hopefully I'll get back into the habit of posting notes regularly again. So here, in chronological order, are all the notes I've written since late December (save two that I posted over the holidays). Looking back, there's really quite a few noteworthy and outstanding wines in here.
Fattoria Nittardi, Nectar Dei, Maremma 2010
Cab Sauv, Merlot, Petite Verdot, and Syrah. Dark ruby. Exceptional, deep, rich, sanguine nose, with wonderful aromatics; dark fruit, leather, herbs, chocolate, and earth. On the nose and palate, blackberry jam, cherry, dried currant, tomato paste, plum, generous orangey acidity keeping balance, dried herbs, leather, dark chocolate, and earth. Full bodied with wonderful texture that is both savory and succulent; very rich, but with vibrant fruit and balanced by a lot of tannin and acid. Really exceptional, such a wonderfully satisfying Super Tuscan, and very Tuscan despite their being no Italian varieties in it. 10 - 15 years ahead, possibly longer. Love it. 4 Stars [12/22/14]
Louis Martini, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2004
Opaque garnet, going to salmon then clear at the rim. Gorgeous Napa nose of dark of dense, rich, dark fruit with a fresh raspberry note giving lift, leather, loads of floral perfume, chocolate, and black earth, with italianate hints of orange rind, herbs, and tomato paste; some mineral depth too. On the palate, at first surprisingly delicate and light (give it time to breath), but over the course of an hour, becomes medium-full bodied, dense and rich, but with finesse; black cherry, both black raspberry and fresh red raspberry, both cassis and red currant, cured tobacco leaf, mocha, cocoa powder, minerally black soil, and very fine, slightly chalky tannin, all with sweet orange rind notes. Tannins resolved but very much present, this is approaching full maturity. Graceful and lovely but with deep character, has the aromatics, class, and depth of a classed growth Margaux, but with Napa typicite. Tastes like a Bordeaux three times the price. Truly a classic Louis Martini Cab. Up to 10 years ahead, depending on your preferences. 4 Stars [12/27/14]
Azienda Agricola Pugliano, Treggiaia, Toscana 2011
Medium garnet. Great nose: pungent, aromatic, dense and deeo, with black cherry, barnyard, cigar box, spice, dark chocolate, and gravelly earth, all with touches of orange rind, sun dried tomato, herbs, and violets. On the palate, pungent black cherry, macerated dark berries (blackberry, black currant), tart, succulent, red pie cherry, citrus, violets, a touch of tobacco leaf, plum, tomato, mocha, smokey earth, succulent tannin, and mineral. Medium-full bodied, dense, with wonderfully succulent and juicy texture, good depth, and savory overtones. Impressive quality. Can last 5 more years, perhaps up to 10. 90% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 5% Malvasia (Nera?). 3.5 Stars [12/29/14]
Monte Volpe, Primo Rosso, Mendocino County 2011
Exceptional Napa-like nose, dense and deep. On the nose and palate, black cherry, fresh blackberry, all with a tart juicy character, but dense and deep with Napa-like leather, tobacco, and earth, and also spice and chocolate, with mineral. Full-bodied, dense, juicy, and a bit lush. An exceptional, impressive wine. Zinfandel, Dolcetto, Carignan, Negroamaro, and Petite Sirah. 3.5 Stars [12/29/14]
This one came out of the idiosyncratic cellar of dear friend:
Hunters, 747, Chardonnay, Hunter River Valley 1993
Quite respectable color: medium gold, starting to head towards bronze, but a twinge of green still. Good but low key nose, rich with floral aromatics, and some mineral depth. On the nose and palate, a personality of still fresh orange, dried tropical fruit (pineapple, papaya, a touch of mango), a touch of floral orange blossom, butterscotch, hints of caramel/toffee/toasted nuts, and a nicely minerally finish. Full bodied, rich, and reasonably deep. Clearly overly mature, but not dramatically so, with minimal oxidation, although with a bit of a sawdust note (probably from a combination of residual oak and some cork funk). Overall, still pleasant. Drink up. 2.5 Stars [12/30/14]
Colombelle, L'Original, Cotes de Gascogne 2011
Exceptional nose. On the nose and palate, fresh, sweet, orchard fruit (pears, peaches), tangerine peel and lime, fresh, rich honey, with a touch of beeswax, bell pepper/sweet vegetal notes and sweet herbs, and plum/gooseberry. Full bodied, fresh and very pure, with a slightly fat texture. Remarkable! 3.5 Stars [12/30/14]
Menage a Trois, Cabernet Sauvignon, North Coast 2010
Black cherry, blackberry jam, a nice touch of cranberry, with leather, tobacco leaf, chocolate, and gravelly earth, all with evergreen notes. Full bodied, with succulent Bordeaux-like fruit, and good depth. Surprisingly good, smells and tastes just like a $20 Alexander Valley Cab Sauv. Excellent quality. 3 Stars [12/31/14]
Ca' Del Sarto, Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, Friuli Grave 2010
Medium-dark ruby, fading to clear at the rim, with suggestions of brown starting to set in. Very good nose of dark fruit, a hint of violets, with a prominent note of marinara, and strong note of almonds, and leathery/chocolatey earth, all with a respectable sense of depth. Similar notes on the palate: cherry, black raspberry, red currants, a touch of plum, savory tomato notes, a vegetal notes, and a strong note of almond (skins and all) and soily earth. Medium-full bodied, extremely savory, though a bit thin and astringent in texture. Makes a strong impression. I like it, but rather unusual. 2 Stars [1/4/15]
These next 6 are from an "Great Italian Reds" tasting I did:
Tenuta Friggiali, Brunello di Montalcino 2008
Medium garnet. Wonderful nose of sweet cherry, fragrant orange rind, violet/rose perfume, tobacco leaf, dried herbs, and fragrant earth/rocks (all the Montalcino hallmarks); deep and aromatic. Similar notes on the palate, with a bit of youthful tightness overcome by lush, aromatic fruit and a wonderful, incredibly succulent texture; lovely, savory finish. Medium-full bodied, with lovely orange acidity. 10 to 15 years ahead. 3.5 Stars [1/10/15]
Ferrero, Toscana 2011
33% Merlot, 33% Cab Sauv, 17% Montepulciano, and 17% Alicante, from vineyards near Montalcino. Medium-dark ruby. Very good nose: red fruit, cassis, cigar tobacco, and leather, with Montalcino notes orange rind, herbs, and earth, and also a hint of pungent barnyard; deep and a bit heady. Same notes on the palate, leading off with huge, succulent cherry and currant, with orangey acidity providing balance, and a finish of spicy, fresh-ground black pepper. A big wine. 10 years ahead easily. 3.5 Stars [1/10/15]
Terre da Vino, La Casa in Collina, Barbaresco 2010
Light ruby with hints of orange. Very good nose: cherry, blackberry, chocolate, tobacco leaf, mushroom/forest floor, and leathery earth. Similar notes on the palate, with a texture of wonderfully succulent red. On the light side of full bodied, taking on weight as it opens. Graceful but with and intense side. 5 to 10 years ahead easily. 3 Stars. [1/10/15]
Cantine Giacomo Ascheri, Barolo 2010
Light ruby with hints of orange. Low key, not particularly expressive nose, and yet conveys a sense of quality, depth. and potential. Similarly inexpressive on the palate, but with a wonderful, succulent, chocolately texture already showing, and notes of red fruit, fresh blackberry, currant, tobacco, chocolate, an earth. Full bodied and serious, but an infant still. Give it another 10 years; it should last for 20 years from now. 4 Stars [1/10/15]
Terredora di Paolo, Pago dei Fusi, Taurasi 2005
Medium ruby. Excellent, sanguine nose, with dark fruits, juicy red plum, tomato, a hint of tobacco leaf, saddle leather, and smokey, rocky earth; a whiff of mature raisen notes too. Same notes on the palate. Full bodied with a nice savory succulent texture, but a bit astrigent. Becomes lusher with air. Somewhat youthful still, will benefit from 5 to 10 years, and last for 15 to 20 from now. 3.5 Stars [1/10/15]
Montechiara, Amarone della Valpolicella 2010
Dark ruby. Good but low key nose, with sweet, slightly jammy dark berries, fresh red fruit, and undertones of spice. Rich and concentrated on the palate, with dried cherry, blackberry jam, sweet red currant, and notes of tar, raisen, and spice toward the minerally finish. Huge body but kept in balance by bright citrusy acidity. Wonderful stuff! 10 to 15 years ahead. 4 Stars. [1/10/15]
St. James Winery, Frontier Selections, Cynthiana, Ozark Highlands 2012
Dark, almost opaque ruby. Excellent nose: dense, dark, fleshy, aromatic, and slightly heady, with a prominent note of wonderful dusty earth / cocoa powder, and well-integrated note of charred oak. On the nose and palate, a personality of tarry black cherry and currant, juicy blueberry and plum, an aromatic note of rose garden, cigar tobacco, bell pepper, a touch of leather, dusty earth and dark chocolate. Full bodied and dense, with prominent acidity, a lush quality to the fruit, and smooth but chalky tannins providing excellent texture. Like a cross between Merlot and Aglianico, rustic, but very well made, and an impressive effort. I like it a lot! 5 more years easily, perhaps up to 10. 2.5 Stars [3/7/15]
Ramos Loios, Vila Santa, Alentejo 2012
Excellent, rich, dark, aromatic nose. On the nose and palate: overtones of licorice, cherry, blackberry, raspberry, currant, smokey mineral, leather, and orange rind. Dense and deep, yet lively and juicy with excellent tone and aromatic personality. Delightful and satisfyingly complex at the same time. Excellent! 3 Stars [3/29/15]
Esporao, Alandra, Portugal 2012
Pear, pink grapefruit, somewhat dark notes of plum, flowers (magnolia?), a touch of honey, and some mineral. Medium-full bodied, fresh, with a slightly fat texture supported by citrus. Very nice. 2.5 Stars [4/3/15]
Angeline, Gewurztraminer, Mendocino 2006
Ripe pear and melon, with flowers, spice, and mineral. Full-bodied with slightly steely acidity, aromatic and musky, with mature petrol notes. Drink soon, but holding nicely. Tastes much younger than it is. 2.5 Stars [4/3/15]
Turns out one of my non-traditional students is a Tokaji lover, and shared some with me as a going-away treat:
Chateau Megyar, Aszu, 5 Puttonyos, Tokaji 1993
Bronze with hints of green. Exceptional but subtle, dense, and rich nose of candied apricot, raw sugar, loads of mineral, botrytis mace, tangerine, orchard blossoms, and blackberry flesh, all with mature fruitcake hints. On the palate, fresh, fleshy, tart apricot, tangerine, candied pear, raw sugar, flower nectar, botrytis, lots of mineral, and blackberry/raspberry flesh toward the finish. Full bodied, penetrating and somewhat intense, very sweet, but almost drinks like a dry wine due to the huge, tart, citrusy acidity. Long,
excellent finish. Extraordinary, delightful stuff. 10 to 20 years more. 4 Stars [5/9/15]
Columbia Crest, Grand Estates, Shiraz, Columbia Valley 2002
Remarkable color, still opaque ruby. Exceptional, lovely nose of deep cherry, currant, and loads of blackberry, with generous smoked meat and gamey notes. Same notes on the palate, juicy, full bodied, and unbelievably fresh still, with some gamey maturity setting in. A shockingly exceptional wine. Wow, so good! 3 to 5 years more. 3.5 Stars [5/13/15]
Jean-Pierre Marniquet, Brut Tradition, Champagne NV
Excellent, sweet, deep nose. On the nose and palate, sweet-tart lemon curd, a touch of blood orange, a hint of apricot, a hint of nuts, toast, and mineral; as it opens, raw bread dough emerges. Full bodied, clean, and bright, yet deep. Very classy! 4 Stars [5/13/15]
Forget-Brimont, Brut Rose, 1er Cru, Champagne NV
Tremendous nose of stone fruits, raspberry, flowers, lemon curd and blood orange, a bit of nuts, and toasty/minerally depth. Same notes on the palate, with so much richness and steely depth, and notes of flower nectar too. Exceptionally high quality, and delightfully satisfying. This is what every NV Champage wants to be. Love it, love it, love it! 4 Stars [5/13/15]
Beaulieu Vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford 2012
Nice Napa nose of dark, sweet blackberry, raspberry, and currant, with tobacco, cured leather, cocoa and espresso. On the palate, excellent, dense, rich fruit; sappy and a bit candied. Really good quality and really, really nice. Not an ager, but nice now. 3.5 Stars [5/22/15]
These next three are from our final meal with some friends; they brought the Opus:
De Sante, Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford 2012
Ruby with hints of purple, and rainbow at the rim. Wonderful, effusive nose, slightly jammy but also fresh and juicy, with black cherry, blackberry, cassis/currant, roses/flowers, with Napa notes of tabacco, leather, unsweetened chocolate, and background notes of earth. Same notes on the palate with the addition of bright, juicy, red plum giving balance and acid tone; nice, succulent finish. Very full bodied, juicy and almost sappy in texture, with lush fruit and yet excellent tone, despite an almost candied note. Good quality; really enjoyable stuff. 5 to 8 years ahead but no need to wait. 3.5 Stars [5/28/15]
Opus One, Napa Valley 2011
Wonderful, lush nose of cherry and blackberry with Napa notes of black soil, cocoa, a touch of cured leather, and tobacco, overlayed with olives and herbs de Provence. Similar notes on the palate: cherry, cassis, sweet blackberry (with a tart, fresh quality to it), unsweetened cocoa, vanilla, cigar tobacco, Napa earth/leather, maybe a hint of olive, and mineral. Full bodied, lush, and penetrating, but not overly intense, and with prominent acid tone; reminiscent of Chateauneuf du Pape. Starts out a bit light, but takes on weight as it opens. Not one to impress the critics, but for me, still outstanding for its impressive purity and quality. Drink over the next 10 to 15 years. 4.5 Stars [5/28/15]
Chateau de Levant, Sauternes 2011
Sparkly straw yellow, with hints of green. Wonderful nose: clean, floral, nectary, and honeyed. On the nose and palate, peaches, mango, apricot, candied orange peel, almond, honey, caramel syrup, vanilla, alspice (from the botrytis), and mineral. Full bodied and elegant, with remarkable intensity upfront. Very rich, but very pure and clean, and balanced by prominent orangey acidity. A bit more depth and a more persistent finish would be welcome, but this is still grand cru qualilty. Another 10 to 15 years, easily. 3.5 Stars [5/28/15]
Chateau Sylvain Raymond, Graves 2012
Wonderful, fascinating nose of dark cherry and fresh blackberry, with prominent notes of mint, fresh, tabacco leaf, dark floral perfume, gravel, and dusty earth/mineral, with cocoa powder; very, very savory. Similar notes on the palate, with dark, juicy, attractive fruit, some tart, succulent, red fruit, and damson plum. Medium-full bodied, juicy, and remarkably savory. All the classic Graves things are there, but with Medoc-ish savory character. I like it! 5 years more. Based on this, 2012 seems somewhat like a cross between 2008 and 2001. 3 Stars [7/15/15]
Compliments of my brother-in-law, who also treated me to some Crown Royal XR, which is really impressive stuff:
Jackson-Triggs, Niagara Estate, Vidal Icewine, Reserve, Niagara Peninsula 2012
Medium gold. Exceptional, rich nose of honey, candied orchard fruits, orange, some floral hints, botrytis-esque brown spices (mace, nutmeg, cloves), and mineral. Same notes on the palate, full bodied, sweet-tart and intense, with prominent orange sherbert notes and big acid keeping it fresh. The density, weight, and quality are impressive; clearly a lot of effort went into this. Probably somewhat indestructible, I wouldn't be surprised if it ages gracefully for 20 years. 3.5 Stars [7/28/15]
From my cellar:
Chateau Malmaison, Moulis 2005
Nearly opaque ruby, with a cast of rust coming on; quite impressive still. Outstanding nose with wonderful depth, a bit heady and with aromatic fleshiness, and notes of deep, intense, black cherry, raspberry/blackberry, lush plum, red currant and cassis, dried herbs, unsweetened chocolate, and dusty/chalky earth/mineral; impressively succulent. Similar notes on the palate, with dense black cherry overlayed by tart, macerated blackberry upfront, and plum, currant, dusty earth/cocoa powder, sweet vegetal notes, some Medocish hints of leather and pencil lead, and lots of rocky mineral depth. Full bodied with lots of raw tannin still present, but also has a wonderful, succulent texture, and 2005's freshness. Impressively youthful still, and quite tight when just openned. Will benefit from 5 more years, and last for 5 to 10 after that, possibly longer depending on your preferences. Really nice. 3.5 Stars. [8/3/15]
This winery is not too far from here, and has long been a favorite of mine amongst Midwestern wineries; it's in Weston, and a few of their wines are aged in McCormick's used whiskey barrels:
Pirtle, Premium Port, Missouri NV
Excellent color, opaque purple, clear at the rim. Excellent nose, spirity, malty, and heady, with notes of charred oak, all on top of dark, dense, sweet, macerated berries and prune. On the palate, sweet notes of cherry, black raspberry, tart blackberry, and blueberry, with perhaps a hint of bitter citrus peel, and a spirity finish reminiscent of coffee bean. Full, intense body and quite sweet but balanced by good acidity and a strong spirity note; the quality is very good, and one might even call it elegant, in it's way. A contender for the best Midwestern "Port" I've had; compares favorably with Portuguese ruby Ports (e.g. Fonseca Bin 27). Can certainly go for 10 years, maybe as much as 20. 3 Stars [8/7/15]
Stay tuned: this Sunday the dear friend with the idiosyncratic cellar is bringing something extraordinarily special over. Will report on that promptly, unless I don't come back down from heaven . . . .