by Mark Willstatter » Mon Jan 01, 2007 5:29 pm
I've enjoyed most of the few Dillian wines I've tried - I was formerly an occasional winery employee nearby, met Tom Dillian and his family in is role as manager of another local vineyard and was an early taster when they opened their tasting room. The one criticism I'd make is that some (a Zin or two, if I remember right) were a bit heavier on the oak than I'd prefer. I believe some of their early releases were made for them elsewhere but whether a 2002 Barbera (they only built and opened their current faciility in 2003) is one of those or not, I don't know. The intention was to move all production in house, a transition that may well be complete by now. I mention all of this only to point out that they're probably still early in the process of developing a "house style", which may or may not be evident in an "older" vintage like this. Very nice people, though, and the winery is worth watching as it develops.
I, too, have found some brett in Easton Barbera. It was only moderate and not terribly off-putting in the couple of bottles I've had but I can certainly believe there might be some bottle or vintage variation. The word locally was that Cooper Vineyard Barbera (the fruit, not the wine - the source for Easton's Barberas) is particularly affected by brett. I also heard from others that Terre Rouge/Easton's winery practices might not be as successful as others in terms of controlling fruit-borne brett. I don't remember the details but I think it had to do with how SO2 was added at crush.
Finally, I don't know if you've sampled another nearby source for Barbera - Boeger. Boeger makes (or has made in the past) some unusual Italian varietals, some in limited enough quantities that they don't make it much beyond the tasting room. I remember Refosco and Charbono, for example, in addition to the Barbera that is more widely distributed. It's been a few years since I tasted there but the Barbera was often my favorite of their lineup. It can be a bit hit-and-miss there but prices are reaonable for the hits ($15 or so for the Barbera, I think). It's too bad they abandoned their historic old stone tasting room for the new glitzified one but still worth the trip if you haven't made it.