2004 Correggia, Roero Arneis:
Expansive smells; tangy, viscous, bright flavors of herb and white fruit with a tang that suits it for food; and, good length. This was served with pasta that had olives, sautéed onions, roasted brussel sprouts and fennel mixed in, and it sung. A delicious wine for use with dishes many other wines are not; like grüner veltliner or Greco de tufo, for instance. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Marc de Grazia and $7 on sale; I’d buy it again.
2004 Tenta delle Terre Nere, Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana:
From 40-50 year old vines, some pre-phylloxera, of nerello mascalese in volcanic soil; a wine that reminds me of pinot noir; it is deceptive, starting out rather simple and disjointed, perhaps a trifle sweet, this comes together slowly in the glass and the structure shows only after several hours; at last, it is very aromatic and earthy while retaining elegant, cherry fruit and remarkable complexity. I’d say this needs five or so years in the cellar. 14% alcohol, imported by Michael Skurnik and about $20; I’d buy it again.
2002 Overnoy/Houillon, Arbois Pupillin:
“And now for something completely different . . .,” and this poulsard from the Jura is not for everyone; orange-red in color, translucent, aromatics like sun-baked woodlands, red fruit and incense, quite complex; the same across the palate with an overall impression of a medium-weight, stony, fruit juice that is bone-dry. The earthy character of this wine is not subtle and is surely it’s most interesting and intricate component; juice that reminds me that there is a broad spectrum of variety in the world of wine and that a very few are utterly authentic. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $22; I bought a lot.
(Aside: my wife seldom says anything about any wine; usually it’s just ‘okay or no thanks.’ I know she feels as though she does not have the experience or the descriptors to accurately communicate her impressions.
She went on about this using superlatives she never has before and indicating her fascination in clear terms. That alone is enough for me to buy more. That and the fact that I love it, too.)
Best, Jim
