What to expect of this cellar orphan? ('01 Kabinett)

[Robin Garr]

I was cleaning out some old wine racks the other day, making up a mixed case of cellar orphans to donate to a non-profit wine tasting, and I ran across this item: Selbach-Oster 2001 M-S-R Riesling Kabinett.

2001-Selbach-Oster.jpg

Original price unknown, although I doubt it was much. I don't recall Selbach-Oster as being a name to conjure with.

That being said, I know that Riesling can age amazingly; and the cork is intact, no seepage, the bottle is full and, held up against the light, shows no darkening or sediment.

So, Riesling gurus, what do you think? I doubt anyone here would advise me to pitch it without a look under the cork. But do you think I should brace for disappointment or expect delight? Or ... something in-between? What are my odds?

[David M. Bueker]

It should be just fine. Selbach-Oster, since 2001 in fact is a name to conjure with. Johannes Selbach is one of the bright lights of the Mosel, though he gets much less credit than he deserves. I would expect this to be fully mature, but in no way OTH.

[Robin Garr]

It should be just fine. Selbach-Oster, since 2001 in fact is a name to conjure with. Johannes Selbach is one of the bright lights of the Mosel, though he gets much less credit than he deserves. I would expect this to be fully mature, but in no way OTH.

Thanks, Riesling Guru! I'm delighted to hear that. I ASSumed it wasn't much on the basis of relatively limited selections of excellent German wine in this market, and my willingness to spring for the same.

Thinking back, though, if I bought this upon release, say 2004, David Schildknecht was here in Louisville, and the local German selection didn't go to hell until he left and his former employers passive-aggressively let the category fall back to an afterthought.

Anyway, I guess we'll pull cork tonight (with a giant platter of crispy roasted kale ), and I'll report in due course.

[David M. Bueker]

David's former employers were never an importer of German Riesling. That was part of his agreement in working with them while simulateously being the German reviewer for Steve Tanzer's journal.

[Robin Garr]

David's former employers were never an importer of German Riesling. That was part of his agreement in working with them while simulateously being the German reviewer for Steve Tanzer's journal.

I don't know the contractual details and didn't need to know, but I know this: When he was there, they had an awesome selection of Germans and Austrians (and some excellent AFWE French stuff). When he left, the quality of those sections diminished. I also know that the management slightly bad-mouthed him after he left, not because he wasn't a great guy and an awesome wine geek, but because he left the shelves loaded with stuff that they didn't know how to sell.

[David M. Bueker]

Nobody knows how to sell it. Anywhere.

[David M. Bueker]

And just some timing stuff. That wine was released in 2002. David was already in wholesale distribution by then.

[Robin Garr]

Nobody knows how to sell it. Anywhere.

Meanwhile, it's splendid, holding up well, although the color suggests I probably did well not to hold it for another few years.

Selbach-Oster 2001 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Riesling Kabinett \

Purchased 2003-04, bottle stored passively since purchase, yet in very good shape. No seepage, capsule turns freely, cork firm and stable. Wine clear, no sediment, a rich gold color with hints of bronze, not youthful but certainly not past peak. The aromas and flavors confirm this: Rich, honeyed tangerine-orange-blossom aromas; unctuous mouthfeel, dry, good acidic balance. Good Riesling "petrol" minerality joins fresh citrus on the palate, lingering in a very long, clean finish. Complex, balanced, delicious, despite its sketchy storage history. Surely good for another decade or more under better conditions. Typical of Kabinett, a modest 10% alcohol. U.S. importer: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, N.Y. (May 31, 2015)

FOOD MATCH: Roasted crispy kale, potatoes and onions; slices of Parmigiano-Reggiano

http://www.selbach-oster.de

[Robin Garr]

And just some timing stuff. That wine was released in 2002. David was already in wholesale distribution by then.

I don't remember the time line, to be honest. As I recall, he went from the Louisville branch of the suburban Cincinnati Party Source stores somewhere around that point to work for Vintner Select, but that was pretty much a sibling relationship. The firms were closely connected, and his hand remained evident at Party Source until (1) the Louisville store was sold to Lexington's Party Barn and (2) David went to work for Parker. That was around 2006, I'm pretty sure.

[David M. Bueker]

Glad to hear it. Need to fix your vintage in the note though.

[Robin Garr]

Glad to hear it. Need to fix your vintage in the note though.

D'oh!

Great showing from the base Kabinett.
I liked S-O a lot in 2001. Know I have a couple halves of Auslese*, CT says some Badstrube Kab as well, should dig out.

[Robin Garr]

As a little follow-up, Mary and I didn't finish the bottle on Sunday night, but decanted a portion into a glass container (okay, an old jar ) just large enough to hold it without much head space, refrigerated overnight, and fnished it last night. It was still quite good, but after even brief exposure to air, it was just starting to show a Sherry overtone that made me really glad we hadn't waited for another day.

Robin, my guess is your 2001 Selbach Oster Kabinett may have had a storage problem. I bought several of them and all have been in great shape to date, which is no surprise as SO is a first rate winery and 2001 a great year for the Mosel. In a typical year, what Terry Thiese calls his "rules of them" for German Rieslings can be pretty good guides, and for Kabinetts Thiese rule is they generally peak at from four to six years (if they are true Kabinett and not declassified Auslese, which some 2001s were) and shouldn't fade until about age 15. Of course for a year like 2001 I think you can safely add a few more years to that, which has been my experience. I've drunk most of my 2001 Kabs, all in good shape, have drunk some Spatlese, and haven't touched a single Auslese. I hope you don't take everything I've said on the subject as gospel as I'm no German Riesling expert, but I fell in love with the 2001 vintage in the Mosel and bought more than I usually do, and have never regretted it.

[David M. Bueker]

I don't know...14 years from the generic Kabinett is pretty darned good.

I still have about 2 cases of various 2001 Kabinetts from 7 different producers. I may hold 5 or 6 bottles for notably longer term, but most will be drunk up in the next couple of years.

I think that's about right, David. I suspect some 2001 Kabinetts will hold for several more years, but these may be declassified Ausleses. What do you think of the prospects for the 2001 JJ Prum WS Kabinetts? The last time I drank one it still seemed young. I'm in no hurry there.

[David M. Bueker]

Clint,

They are almost all declassified Auslese, or at least high grade Spätlese.

I have not even opened any of my 2001 Prum Kabinetts. I have had bottles from other folks, and they seem fine for further cellaring.