WTN: Lineup of top 1995 Burgs

Andy hosted SOBER Tuesday. Anticipating an amazing tasting, Mark arranged for his son to drive us to Greenwich. We were the first to arrive, and Andy had some Piedmont sausage and grana padano out , with 2 Champagnes

Selosse “Initial”
(disgorged 7/12) Full, big, dry, sharp, not delicate but I like. B+

Selosse VO
I neglected to note disgorgement. Some Champagne heads loved this, but to me the combination of some oxidative notes and the extreme dryness (I think this is extra brut) took away some charm compared to the fresher Initial. B

After everyone arrived, we moved to dining room. Andy didn't go for fully blind, announcing that the evening would be all 1995s, all but one from Burgundy.

We were served the first flight, decanters were numbers (numbers included the Champagnes). We knew the vintage, everyone was surprised by an 0 for 3 premox showing - lucky night.

Wine #3- most advanced, minty, hazelnut, mature but a pretty good showing when revealed as a village wine. 1995 d'Auvenay Auxey-Duresses blanc B

Wine # 4 - Dan got Meursault I think on first guess. Plush big, but not as lively as #5.
1995 Leroy Meursault Narvaux. B

Wine # 5 - full, lush, tropical but with a floral note. 1995 d'Auvenay “ Folatieres “ Puligny Montrachet 1er B+/A-

the whites were accompanied by canapes (assorted mini tartes and pizza-like bites)

First red flight (w/terrine with pistachio served with salad)
Wine # 6- really earthy nose, Mark declared mushrooms but pondered what kind, settled on ceps. Midbodied, fresh, red fruits and earth tones. 1995 Domaine Leroy “Boudots” Nuits St George 1er B+

Wine # 7 - Red fruits with a green edge, though to me more herby that vegetal.
1995 Maison Leroy “Chaumes” Vosne-Romanee 1er B

Wine # 8- sandalwood, exotic , long, elegant. Think pretty much consensus favorite. 1995 Domaine Leroy “Beaumont” Vosne-Romanee 1er A-

Wine # 9- great nose- both floral and gamey- and good fruit, but I thought a bit tough and drying on finish (some others disagreed). 1995 Domaine Leroy “Brulees” Vosne-Romanee 1er B+/B

Second Red Flight (with lamb chops, potato, asparagus). Dan called Gevrey early.

Wine # 10 -somehow I didn’t write anything but a grade for this, but I liked it a lot and I recall if as complex and long. 1995 d'Auvenay Mazis-Chambertin A-/B+

Wine # 11 -sappy dark fruit, a bit shut-in compared to its companions. 1995 Bachelet Charmes-Chambertin VV B/B+

Wine # 12- lovely, black cherry fruit, complex blend of meat, citrus peel, and earth, beautiful balance. John gets the wine. 1995 Rousseau Chambertin A-

Wine # 13 - dark fruits, spice, a little tannic but delicious. After John gets #12 is Rousseau Chambertin I think Mark immediately gets this as the Beze. 1995 Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Beze B+/A-

Third Red Flight (with cheese) - someone (Dan or Craig) guessed Chambolle off bat.

Wine # 14 - Andy opened TWO bottles of this, both corked! 1995 Roumier Bonnes Mares Sob.

Wine # 15- Herby/stemmy, spicy, long, delicious. Apparently John got immediately but Andy shushed him while the rest of us flailed. 1995 Roumier Musigny A-/B+

Wine # 16- Complex, coffee and cocoa over lovely fruit, big but elegant. 1995 de Vogue Bonnes Mares A-

Wine # 17- big, good fruit but a little tough on finish, but gets a boost from an evolving nose with lots of earth and meat. 1995 de Vogue Musigny B+

Dessert wine (I passed on dessert, but folks loved an apple/cream concoction)
Wine # 18 - I think Dan said “this must be Chapoutier” before decanter even made it around table. Honied, orange peel, but I think a touch soft on acids. Actually 2 375s combined in decanter. 1995 Chapoutier Vin de Paille B

Really fun night. Amazing selection of wines. Probably doubled my lifetime consumption of 1er Cru Lalou wines, and my first Roumier Musigny (a wine I figured I’d never try). I was surprised at how much I enjoyed the Vogues. Great night, big thanks to Andy, and thanks to Philip for driving.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

Thanks for the notes, Dale. Once again I am officially jealous .

Like the '95 Bordeaux, I held off broaching my '95 Burgundies until recently. Those opened have been enjoyable but could have room for further improvement. I am lucky have have two bottles each of the Rousseau Chambertin and the Voguë Bonnes Mares, both of which you rate A-. I guess that this means that there is no need to hold back further before opening them.

Like the '95 Bordeaux, I held off broaching my '95 Burgundies until recently. Those opened have been enjoyable but could have room for further improvement. I am lucky have have two bottles each of the Rousseau Chambertin and the Voguë Bonnes Mares, both of which you rate A-. I guess that this means that there is no need to hold back further before opening them.

I really haven't had many '95 Burgs in last 5 years, but reports were hard/closed. But only the Rousseau Beze and Vogue Musigny were less approachable. Andy decanted all of the reds a bit before 6, we probably got to red flights between 7:30 and 9:30. Most were approachable, but most improved in glass. If I had a single bottle of any of thse I'd think about holding off a bit. But if multiples I'd probably give a shot, I think they're eyeing the starting edge of the drinking plateau (based on one tasting)

Thanks for posting the notes. I'm sorry to hear that the 1995 De Vogue Musigny showed so poorly. The one I opened on May 22 was phenomenal.

-Paul W.