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WTN: Disappointment with Chave, Jaboulet..but good newcomers

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Tim York

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WTN: Disappointment with Chave, Jaboulet..but good newcomers

by Tim York » Mon May 04, 2015 5:22 am

Having had an exceptionally good series of wines out of my cellar for Easter week, fate has shaken me out of complacency in the week leading to May 1, my birthday weekend, by producing a number of bad disappointments in the form of badly aged bottles, some of which should have been exceptional. These were –

Savennières Roche aux Moines Ch.de Chamboureau C.de l’Avant 2002 – Waxy and dried out.
Hermitage 1988 R J-L Chave – Tawny coloured and porty smelling and tasting with a cabbage note. :( :( :(
Hermitage La Chapelle 1997 R Jaboulet – Better but over-ripe and showing a tendency in the same direction as the Chave. My son-in-law seemed to like it this way.
Muscat de Rivesaltes 2003 Mas Amiel – Medicinal and toothpaste aromas and dried out fruit. I should have known better than to keep a Muscat VDN so long.

Of course there have been a few good bottles as well. A mixed mail order parcel produced some excellent entry level wines :D ; last week’s Albariño and this week’s red Douro and Ruppertsberger Riesling.

2010 Mas Amiel Côtes du Roussillon Villages Autres Terres - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (4/27/2015)
Previous bottle heavy and a touch cloying. Much improved IMO by serving at cellar temperature (c.14°C). Deep coloured and full bodied with attractive dark, plum and bramble tinged, sweetish fruit, some minerals, tar, leather, freshening acidity, lots of pepper and enough firmness on the finish (alcohol 15% not obtrusive at this temperature). Good.

2013 Niepoort Douro Fabelhaft - Portugal, Douro (4/28/2015)
I knew nothing about this cuvée apparently destined for the German market and bought it on the strength of the Niepoort name. My confidence was justified. Colour not very dense and body medium at most but immediately the aromas on the nose captivated showing lively red fruit, red currant especially, with a porty edge, spice and minerals. The lively fruity palate developed the aromas from nose with lively mouth-watering acidity, gritty minerals and peppery spice finishing off with nice gently saline grip. Good+ wine and excellent QPR at €9.

2012 Domaine Le Roc Fronton La Folle Noire d'Ambat - France, Southwest France, Fronton (5/1/2015)
This is a "fun" wine full of dark fruit, spice and aromatics of an original kind specific to the grape variety, Négrette, grown in Fronton. If the back label did not specify traditional élevage and a 10 month stay in large casks, I would have guessed "macération carbonique" such is the exuberant fruitiness and velvety texture. There is lively acidity, for which Négrette is not famous, and an attractive bitterness on the finish. It has perhaps become rounder, smoother and more civilised as the months pass; a mixed blessing with a grape as individual as Négrette. Nevertheless I will buy more if not sold out. Good+.

NV Bollinger Champagne Special Cuvée Brut - France, Champagne (5/2/2015)
Bottle purchased in 2011. A lovely Bolly with fine bubble, beautifully integrated fruit, mineral, lively acidity, secondary aromas of baking bread and fine backbone with pinoting touch. Stylish and very good.

2013 Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Ruppertsberger Riesling Pfärit 1597 - Germany, Pfalz (5/3/2015)
A model entry level Riesling. Light/medium bodied, genuinely dry, citrus and exotic fruit, white flower and spice infused fragrance, minerals, moreish crisp acidity, backbone and decent length. Everything to like. Very good.
Tim York

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