by Hoke » Tue Apr 28, 2015 2:09 pm
I have always had great fondness for Bern's Steakhouse, partly for the food, partly for the wine, but mostly for Bern's original vision of what a restaurant should be, and do.
It's American extravaganza in it's most garish and blatant form It is also a grand temple of absolute verging-on-clinical obsessive attention to detail (started by Bern; now carried on by his son).
The bar/lounge is a testament to the French Bordello school of design, and floozy boozy drinks are the order of the day. The capacious main floor dining room is more utilitarian/functional than it is elegant dining. The wine lists are literally bolted to the table on custom-built stands (and of course, Bern was so particular about the design and metal fashioning he had to buy the company that did it so he would get exactly what he wanted). And that's not the wine list---just the main course wine list. Another and even more sybaritic one awaits in the dessert room/private booths with pages upon pages of Sauternes, Tokays, Eisweins, and on and on and on.
Bern's is the kind of place where people are eager to begin as bussers, to be able to work their way up to kitchen runners, and a few get to work as line expediters, before they are allowed (some years later) to put on the red vest of the floor waiter (average work span of a floor waiter: 14 years last time I asked).
Example: you order a dessert, one of their specialties and you find out they make the macadamia nut ice cream in house; they make the pastry in house; they grind their own nuts fresh in-house; they grind their own spices fresh in-house; they marinate their own fruit. They might even own the orchards for said fruit. They certainly own their own potato fields for their potato dishes, and own entire herds of cattle to supply their own meats. The fish and seafood: when you order it, they catch it. Two tanks in the back, one freshwater and one saltwater, keep the aquatic life ready at hand. When you order fish, that fish has to be caught and cooked.
And for wine geeks: the by-the-glass list is bigger than most large, fancy restaurant wine lists. And it is kept fresh, believe it or not. The warehouse list (they keep multiple warehouses to hold their wine inventory) is staggering. Even the most jaded can find their rare and precious dream wines here. Some are sacred; some are profane. But Bern's made the accumulation thereof a national wine treasure.
When you go, do it up royal---but first make sure your credit card is not anywhere close to your max limit, 'cause it ain't cheap, and you almost always end up ordering things you never imagined before you walked in the place.