This dinner on Feb. 20th was designed to highlight a transition from winter to spring but the weather didn't cooperate. It was one of the coldest days yet for this month in Raleigh. Some Raleigh roads were still icy so I took a taxi to and from the hotel in Raleigh where I was staying overnight.
The continuous long table was decorated with wintry white candles at one end and spring-like tulips and ferns at the other end in keeping with the theme of bridging the seasons. The menu was also designed to start with heartier winter fare and end with more spring-like dishes. Cheeses came from Georgia and, I think, South Carolina, but the beef, and most of the vegetables were from local sources. We were greeted with a tropical-type cocktail with passion fruit, hibiscus-lavender bitters, and a lime twist
First course was hanger steak with pureed potatoes, confit of farm carrots and oyster mushrooms. This was paired with LOUIS-ANTOINE LUYT EMPEDRADO CARIGNAN, NUALE VALLEY, CHILE. This was described as a natural wine. The Frenchman who settled in Chile works with small farmers to obtain his grapes. There is some funk on the nose which can be a turn-off for me but this was not over-the-edge for my tolerance. From 70-year-old vines, deep crimson color, had some suggestions of a Rhone red.
Second course was scallops crudo with herbed caper vinaigrette, lemon, habanero, and cucumber. The wine was LUIGI BAUDANA "DRAGON" BIANCO from Langhe, Piedmont, Italy. This was selected as a wine of the week by Jancis Robinson. Chardonnay is the predominant grape but the aroma is more influenced by Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc, and there are also Nascetta grapes in the blend. It was a sharp, crisp, pungent white wine.
The third course was an excellent cheese and charcuterie plate which included Sage Derby Cheese as well as a runny cheese, cornichons, homemade duck pate' on crostini, pickled leeks, a gougeres with prosciutto and chicken rillettes. I especially loved the duck pate' but all of the elements were tasty. The wine was LINI ORESTE & FIGLIi LINI 910 LAMBRUSCO, EMILIA-ROMAGNA, ITALY. The presenter talked about how Lambrusco may have a tainted reputation from the industrial output of earlier years but it can be a very versatile wine with pizza, hamburgers, and a varied plate such as this. It was slightly frizzante.
With glazed citrus beets, chevre, radish, grapefruit, orange and marcona almonds we had BROC CELLARS WHITE ZINFANDEL, SONOMA, CA. Again the talk about insipid white zinfandel and how it can be vinified in a more authentic style such as this. This was a pretty color, a delicate light rose shade with transparency. It is from older zinfandel vines and is a limited production. Flavor of unripe strawberries and watermelon.
The dessert course was cherry clafoutis with Escazu chocolate and crème anglais paired with GIANNI GAGLIARDO VILLA M BRACHETTO, ITALY. The bubbly Brachetto, like Bugey Cerdon, is a good pairing with chocolate. Escazu Chocolates is a local Raleigh firm and the chocolate used may have been the Chipotle and Vanilla bar.
Very enjoyable overall and a nice way to spend a cold evening in North Carolina.