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WTN: A good fortnight for wine; Bouscassé,Chinon,Coche.....

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WTN: A good fortnight for wine; Bouscassé,Chinon,Coche.....

by Tim York » Mon Feb 02, 2015 5:52 am

Now that Germaine is sharing the bottles again as she recovers from her op, we have made up for lost time and have opened some good ones :D .

1996 Coche-Dury Meursault - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (1/16/2015)
A lovely bottle showing remarkable freshness for its age. Nose of citrus and exotic fruit with minerals, nuts and butter. Medium bodied palate showing much the same aromas, lively fruit and crisp acidity with a round fleshy undertow, a saline spine and decently long finish. Excellent.

2001 Gianni Masciarelli Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Marina Cvetic - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (1/19/2015)
Less evolved and fresher than the'04 which I opened a few months ago. The nose showed lively red and dark fruit with attractive notes of English fruit cake. The palate was quite full, complex with some secondary notes and rich but was well balanced by lively acidity and by decently ripe tannic grip towards the finish which left a fine afterglow with little sign of the high alcohol (14.5%). One of the classiest wines from the Montepulciano variety which I have had. Very good.

1995 Château Hortevie - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien (1/23/2015)
A very enjoyable bougeois claret at its peak, IMO. At least as good as last June's bottle with still present primary fruit laced with secondary notes and cedar together with good acidity and nicely firm tannins on the finish. Good.

2005 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhäuser Bruderberg Riesling - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (1/26/2015)
This is the junior site in the Grünhaus portfolio but the wine is delicious. It was fuller bodied and richer in fruit than often at this estate but showed lovely mouth-watering and lively acidity and similarly gentle sweetness. Probably less complex, refined and long lived than Abtsberg (I haven't yet touched my '05s of that) but a great pairing for Chinese food which benefited from the slight sweetness. Very good.

2012 Château de Monternot Juliénas Anne d'Aleyrac - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Juliénas (1/27/2015)
Fuller bodied with more depth than most Beaujolais and full of savoury fruit with dark plum and a dab of fresh prune, tangy acidity and some backbone. Good+

1998 Château Léoville Barton - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien (1/29/2015)
This is a robust L-B with still quite primary colour and a nose with red fruit, touches of cedar, balsamic hints and sharp floral odours toggling with acidity. The palate was medium/full with good depth of fruit, more of the same odours from the nose, lively acidity which toyed with astringency and nicely firm tannins at the finish. The question determining this wine's future is whether the hints of astringency will come to dominate or whether they will abate. Just very good.

2012 Château de Varennes Savennières - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières (1/30/2015)
This bottle is just as good and very similar to my memory and notes of my first bottle of the 2010 just about a year ago. However, by early January this year, my last bottle of that vintage had become dull. I reproduce the words I used about the 2010 when it was still singing because they apply equally to this 2012. Colour is a limpid pale yellow and the nose is fresh with some citrus and lots of minerals with some underlying "gras". The medium plus bodied palate plays variations on the same themes with nervous tension, crisp acidity and a mineral spine which veers towards the saline on the finish. Just add to that a touch of grilled meat on the nose and wax on the palate. I shall buy more bottles but based on my experience of the 2010 should expect them to close down within 12-18 months. Very good wine and excellent QPR at <€10.

1988 Château Bouscassé (Alain Brumont) Madiran Vieilles Vignes - France, Southwest France, Madiran (1/31/2015)
I never thought that I would use the word "elegant" in connection with a Madiran but it is entirely appropriate with this bottle. Colour was a quite deep red with rust tints as it poured. The nose was well developed and floral with touches of plum and clay. The palate was medium+ bodied, savoury, quite silky textured and remarkably fresh with red fruit, mineral elements and residual tannins beautifully integrated and exuding for a long time after swallowing the aromas carried on from the nose. Not a "wow" wine but so harmonious that one wanted to go on and on drinking. Last (and best) bottle, alas. Excellent.

1996 Charles Joguet Chinon Clos du Chêne Vert - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (2/1/2015)
Pundits say that this estate passed through an "off" phase from the mid-90s to early 00s. If so, give us more "off" phases!! Colour was quite transparent with slight tawny tints. The nose was very expressive with light gracious red fruit and lovely floral notes. The palate was medium bodied at most but beautifully shaped, caressingly textured and long and still quite fresh with some depth, roundness and the sort of sweet aura found in fine unsugared Darjeeling or China tea. (I am drinking a cup of the former as I write this.) The aromas from the nose continued on the palate and long after swallowing and there were added underlying faint notes of wet leather and forest floor. There was enough acidity and grip on the finish for balance. If the wet leather discourages the brett allergic, please abstain and leave the bottles for those who appreciate the complexity. Harmonious and very elegant. Excellent.

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Re: WTN: A good fortnight for wine; Bouscassé,Chinon,Coche..

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Mon Feb 02, 2015 12:43 pm

Some lovely wines there Tim. I guess some were purchased locally?
Elegant Madiran, love it! As you know I have some recent Joguet in the cellar but do not have a clue as to when to open.
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Re: WTN: A good fortnight for wine; Bouscassé,Chinon,Coche..

by Tim York » Mon Feb 02, 2015 1:29 pm

Bob Parsons Alberta wrote:Some lovely wines there Tim. I guess some were purchased locally?
Elegant Madiran, love it! As you know I have some recent Joguet in the cellar but do not have a clue as to when to open.


Bob, only the Savennières and Juliénas out of that lot were purchased locally. The rest came with me from Belgium.

If your Joguets are Chêne Vert, Dioterie and Varennes du Grand Clos, they would benefit in many vintages from at least 10 years ageing, for my palate at least, and Cuvée de la Cure 5 years. One of them, Chêne Vert?, from 2006 I already found good but that is a quite round and soft vintage.

Now have to choose a wine to go with a fishy spaghetti dish for dinner in about 30 mins. No Italian whites in my cellar :( ; Verdicchio would be ideal. Muscadet?
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Re: WTN: A good fortnight for wine; Bouscassé,Chinon,Coche..

by BMcKenney » Mon Feb 02, 2015 1:44 pm

Tim York wrote:
If your Joguets are Chêne Vert, Dioterie and Varennes du Grand Clos, they would benefit in many vintages from at least 10 years ageing, for my palate at least.


Tim, I have access to Joguets Dioterie and Varennes du Grand Clos from 2007. The Parker vintage chart hints that his is not a great vintage. But have you had these wines from 2007 or have an opinion on what to expect from these?
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Re: WTN: A good fortnight for wine; Bouscassé,Chinon,Coche..

by Tim York » Mon Feb 02, 2015 2:08 pm

BMcKenney wrote:
Tim York wrote:
If your Joguets are Chêne Vert, Dioterie and Varennes du Grand Clos, they would benefit in many vintages from at least 10 years ageing, for my palate at least.


Tim, I have access to Joguets Dioterie and Varennes du Grand Clos from 2007. The Parker vintage chart hints that his is not a great vintage. But have you had these wines from 2007 or have an opinion on what to expect from these?


I have tended to avoid purchasing the Loire reds from 2007 but have had some good whites from Huet. However I have drunk some quite enjoyable '07 reds in a light vein in restaurants but I don't think that it would a good year for ageing those more important Joguet cuvées. However they could still be fair drinking at present and a reasonable buy at a discounted price but I would try to taste them first. I attended a mini-vertical line-up of Joguet at the RVF salon in Brussels two or three years ago but the archive is playing up at the moment, so I am unable to access my TNs to see if there was an '07 amongst them.
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Re: WTN: A good fortnight for wine; Bouscassé,Chinon,Coche..

by BMcKenney » Mon Feb 02, 2015 3:02 pm

Thanks for info Tim. I can't taste first. Have to buy a bottle myself and see how it goes. I'll think about it.
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Re: WTN: A good fortnight for wine; Bouscassé,Chinon,Coche..

by Tim York » Tue Feb 03, 2015 7:39 am

I have found my notes from November 2012 on tasting at the Joguet stand. No 2007, which may be an indication what the exhibitor thought of them.

Domaine Charles Joguet – Chinon

These wines are never more than medium+ in body but are usually beautifully shaped with good tannic support for the finish. No new wood is used. My impressions about their potential is based on experience of previous vintages.

Cuvée Terroir 2009. This is the entry level cuvée. Being three years old it was already quite evolved in a positive way with round ripe fruit and discreet tang; 15/20+.

Several 2008s and a mini-vertical of Clos du Chêne Vert follow. In general I found the 2008s quite well constituted with good structure and lively non-astringent acidity but quite subdued aromatically. I guess that they are in a closed phase and will become more expressive in a few years.

Les Petites Roches 2008 showed boiled sweet touches on the nose but the palate was quite austere at present; 14.5/20.

Cuvée de la Cure 2008. I have greatly enjoyed this cuvée in earlier vintages and this one was more open than Petites Roches showing liqueur hints and more complexity and structure; 15.5/20+ with + potential.

Les Varennes du Grand Clos 2008 showed similar quality of fruit and perhaps more structure than the Cure but was aromatically more closed; 15/20 now with ++ potential.

Clos du Chêne Vert
- 2006 was the most open and best drinking from Joguet on show. The nose showed red fruit, grilled meat and leather notes and the palate was charming with fuller body, rounder and sweeter fruit and more complexity than any of the others. I love the 06s but wonder about their longevity; 16.5/20+.
- 2008 was notably more austere and tannic than the previous and is still aromatically quite closed. I wouldn’t open this now if I had any but believe that it will be a 16/20+ wine in a few years.
- 2009 was even more closed aromatically but fuller bodied, sweeter fruited and more tannic than 2008. It definitely needs time but I can see it becoming 17/20+.

Clos de la Dioterie 2009 was already more expressive and generous aromatically than Chêne Vert but otherwise similar. Nevertheless I wouldn’t drink it now as I would expect the tannins to become rounder and better covered in a few years; also 17/20+ potentially but a bit sooner than the previous.


I also tasted some 2011s at the Joguet stand at le Salon des Vignerons Indépendants in Paris last Spring. They were mostly much fuller and more promising than I was expecting.
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Re: WTN: A good fortnight for wine; Bouscassé,Chinon,Coche..

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Tue Feb 03, 2015 7:42 am

Great set of notes Tim and wonderful insights. I hope that the west end store where I can find Joguet continues to bring in more recent vintages.
I do have the entry-level `09 Cuvee Terroir!
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Re: WTN: A good fortnight for wine; Bouscassé,Chinon,Coche..

by BMcKenney » Tue Feb 03, 2015 9:57 am

The local store that I buy from that has Joguet has them hidden in the corner. I didn't notice them for years I'm sure. Well hidden, and the manager told me they do that in purpose. One being it's kind of a secret, but I think it's also likely they don't sell well so they get less shelf visibility. Anyway, I want access to better, more current vintage. But to do that, I might have to help them deplete the 07's first. Which I am probably game for. Not right away as I have other priorities, and I doubt they are going anywhere. But I'll get to them and try one.
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Re: WTN: A good fortnight for wine; Bouscassé,Chinon,Coche..

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Tue Feb 03, 2015 12:36 pm

Which store is that?

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