WTN: Recent tastes

Here are some very basic impressions on wine I've grabbed from my cellar in the last couple of weeks. Too busy/lazy to write up on other's bottles or any wine region trips, I'm afraid.

• 2010 Bergström Pinot Noir Cumberland Reserve - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley (1/18/2015)
  Didn't take notes on this at a dinner party. Very nice OR pinot, lovely nose of cherries and asian spice and more of the same on the medium bodied palate. Nice texture too, a solid wine from a nice vintage. Ready now but will last as well. (B+/A-)
• 2008 Mark Ryan Long Haul - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Red Mountain (1/15/2015)
  Hazy notes from last night. This was singing after a short decant. Great texture, a complex, concentrated palate with a mix of black and red fruit. Well structured as well, with healthy though ripe and well integrated tannins. This was very impressive now, but should last several years at least. (A-/A)
• 2006 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville (1/13/2015)
  Didn't take notes, but this started out quite tannic and shut down after a pop and pour. A couple hours later and at higher temperatures is started to open up with classic blackfruit flavours, lots of chocolate, less tannins and a more plush texture. A very slight hint of heat also showed up, though. But overall a big, though not too overripe, cab that could use some decanting or additional time. (B+/A-)
• 2011 Akarua Pinot Noir Bannockburn - New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Bannockburn (1/10/2015)
  Hazy notes from last night. This was impressive in an elegant way. Nice weight, concentration and balance here, with everything in place. Some spices to go with cherries on the medium bodied palate. Similar to some OR pinots in style (from a not too hot vintage). Impressive now but should improve. (A-)
• 2007 Unison Vineyard Selection - New Zealand, North Island, Hawkes Bay, Gimblett Gravels (1/8/2015)
  The first night, the American oak notes were far too prominent. By night #2, it is still there, though a little better integrated. Notes are from the second night. Fairly dark in colour, there are black fruit and oak notes on the nose. There's a nice texture to the wine, its medium-full bodied with a mix of black and red fruits, but again the back palate just has too much oak for my liking - there are some of the charred dill and pickle notes from American oak that I hate so much. Still youthful, so maybe there's still hope? But it doesn't float my boat, although it's always a great winery to visit in Hawkes Bay. (B-)
• 2008 Malivoire Riesling Icewine - Canada, Ontario, Niagara Peninsula, Beamsville Bench VQA (1/1/2015)
  Hazy notes. Great bronze/copper in colour, great intensity to this icewine, though not a lot of complexity, as in most Canadian icewines. Apricot, pear and apple on the not too sweet palate. Great now, but will last a few years yet. (A-)
• 2008 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir - New Zealand, North Island, Wairarapa, Martinborough (1/1/2015)
  Didn't take notes, but this was a nice pinot with good concentration, some asian spice and cherry flavours. Medium-full bodied, impressive NZ pinot. (A-)
• NV Bruno Gobillard Champagne Brut - France, Champagne, Oger, Champagne (12/29/2014)
  Hazy notes from a few days ago. I was quite impressed, with more richness and concentration than I was expecting. Lovely classic nose, and nicely balanced on the medium, long finish. Very pleasurable with a celebratory dinner. (A-)
• 2009 Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos de Saint Yves - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières (12/29/2014)
  Hazy notes from last week. Interesting to see the very varied notes on this wine, which perhaps reflects the somewhat controversial nature of Loire chenin: it's an acquired taste, if my friends' reactions are anything to go by. Lovely chenin here, with all the quirky flavours (wet wool, lanolin) that defines the Loire versions, and nice concentration and balance. Very nice for a basic' domain wine. Drinking well now, but will last too. (B+/A-)
• 2006 Dönnhoff Riesling - Germany, Nahe (12/19/2014)
  Hazy notes from a few days ago. Popped and poured, it was a well integrated wine with great balance and a blend of citrus and stonefruit. It picked up acidity as the bottle was emptied, and there was a hint of a bitter note. But still a tasty wine that should last a few years yet. (B+)
• 2011 Catherine et Claude Maréchal Savigny-lès-Beaune Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune (11/15/2014)
  Brought to a dinner last night. Didn't take notes, but this improved a bit with air, but was still light to medium bodied. It wasn't too expressive, not much on the nose, but had some cherry and earthy notes. A solid villages burgundy. (B/B+)

[Jenise]

John, do you have much experience with Mark Ryan wines? I had a few when I first moved up here in '03 and somehow put them in the 'avoid' column. The memories are too distant to offer the precise reasons why, but I'd guess overt modernity or overripeness was my issue. And not one person has recommended them to me since, so things remain unchanged. Should I revisit?

I tend to be careful with this producer as well. Sometimes I'd done a tasting there (Woodinville) and have been quite taken with some of the wines and other times not so much. In 2007-2009, I bought, but after that, I didn;t. And yes, overripeness can be an issue - actually perhaps it is more they are extremely fruit forward rather than overripe. I tend to like their Long Haul and Dead Horse wines best. I was very impressed with this 2008 Long Haul wine. Time had been very good to it, and it seems to lose the oak and fruit that you tend to notice when they are released. They use impeccable sources (mainly Red Mountain) for their fruit, and I think they can be worth a look. Again, I haven;t bought lately, but this 2008 was impressive. Maybe in cool years they are more worth a look?

I tend to like Jamuik's style rather than Mark Ryan. They seem more structured, higher acid and less fruit forward.

[Jenise]

In cool years a lot of Washington wines become worth a look, I'll agree. However the ones that sustain my interest are the ones who can reign it in the rest of the time--and it would be the same for you. I only need to taste one flabby overripe exception to acquire permanent mistrust.