WTN: Bairrada 1980

I've had a bad case of writer's block and a general disillusionment with wine writing and even to some extent with wine recently. But finally I opened a wine that was interesting enough that I might say a word or two about it.

Caves São João Frei João Bairrada 1980
Probably entirely Baga; 12% abv; c.50€

Tough and uncompromising; stinky, dry and tannic. Seemingly there is no hurry. Drink and hold. If you like a wine with attitude, one that isn't always polite and will sometimes give you the finger, then do try an old Frei João. Fans of squeaky cleanliness, please save these rare treats for those of us who like this kind of attitude.

Caves São João is an old-school producer with huge caves containing thousands of aged bottles of Bairrada and Dao wines, reds, whites and sparkling (a specialty of the Bairrada region). While probably not my favorite Bairrada producer, it would be delightful to be left alone in there for a few days! Here is a Sarah Ahmed article about these cellars: http://thewinedetective.co.uk/blog/port ... pens-doors