A recent forum discussion among Ryan, Bob, and Oliver piqued my interest in tasting more/learning more about Aglianico, so here goes an Open Mike.
Though often ascribed to being of Greek origin, Robinson, Harding, and Vouillamoz's Wine Grapes disputes the likelihood of a Greek origin and suggest DNA evidence points toward an origin from southern Italy. Their descriptors for wines made from the grape include: "dark, concentrated and tannic wines that improve with age" - "deep in colour with aromas suggestive of the volcanic origins of the vineyards or of chocolate and plum" - "fine-grained tannins and marked acidity on the palate, becoming more subtle and tarry as they mature". Grown in Basilicata (home of the Aglianico del Vulture DOC) and Campania (home of the Taurasi DOCG) in southern Italy.
Let the tasting begin! (Full disclosure: I work part-time at a wine shop, where some of the following are occasionally on the shelf).
2011 Villa Raiano Campania Aglianico (Campania IGT, southern Italy) - dark pleasant aromatics, inky dark color, lots of structure on palate, minimal fruit, but to the degree it is there it offers some pleasant dark fruit and stewed plum, tannins firm but finely tuned, awesome acidity, drinking surprisingly easily, bottle went quickly paired with pizza with roasted garlic, salami, fresh mozzarella, I found this wine incredibly well balanced on its own--a proper red for the chilly weather in the Bay Area at the moment, but when paired with some Little Star Pizza it was down-right dangerous, the bottle disappears much faster than I am accustomed to as a single diner!
Notes from producer regarding élevage: "After getting the wine off the lees, 50% is aged in French oak barriques of second and third passage for about ten months, 50% is refined in stainless steel tanks on lees, for ten months as well." and vineyards: "20-acre-sole estate in Castelfranci, in contrada Baiano at 1,680 ft asl, planted in 2004 and grown by guyot, with about 2,500 plants per acre. South-East exposure. Chalky clay soil and some ashes." Geographically typing, Castelfranci is in Irpinia, 20 kilometers (a 30 minute drive) southeast of Taurasi.
2011 Grifalco Aglianico del Vulture Gricos Aglianico del Vulture DOC, Basilicata, southern Italy - I found the aromatics here unusual, but not unpleasant, hard to pin down, some of the weirder elements seemed to blow off with time, but oddly suggestive of oak at first (which it wasn't, given the élevage) and then my thoughts moved to some sort of concrete rockiness, something unusual about the nose I couldn't put my finger on. On the palate, the first approach is almost luscious with lots of fruit and suggestive of residual sugar. Thankfully this element moves into the background as I went on and takes on just a hint of something more savory. The fruit is interesting enough, but predominantly riper and richer until a boatload of drying tannins come in on finish. Another weird feeling for me of oak-like tannins, though obviously not from oak. There's a tad too much sweet fruit for me--something which makes it highly approachable to lots of folk, but less appealing to me. The long and lingering tannins might have some speedbump effect, but pair it with richer/fattier foods (tea-smoked duck and fatty pork shoulder, Szechuan-style, in my case) and the tannins disappear and the wine is incredible moreish. Another case where the bottle disappears when food appears. This wine was far more beguiling for me--part of it might be a volcanic element that I'm still learning to process palatewise. But, overall seemed a bit ripe and rich for what I typically prefer, lower acid than I'd expect/prefer (though the magic with food suggests the acid is there/ready/willing--but the fruit stands out more when drinking without food). I found this very interesting indeed.
Background on the wine from the importer: "100% Aglianico estate-grown in four different vineyards in the Vulture area (vine age: 15 yrs). Vinified in a forward, drinkable style but still an ample, very flavorful red wine with a deep plummy color. Aged in large barrels for 12 months. Production: 2500 cases"
From Robinson's Oxford Companion to Wine entry on Aglianico del Vulture: "The DOC zone consists of close to 400ha/1,000 acres, all on soil of volcanic origin from Mount Vulture in the north western part of the zone and benefitting from cold nights at an altitude of 450 to 600m (1,970 ft)."
Johnson and Robinson's Wine Atlas suggests that the selection of Aglianico grown in Vulture is distinct from that grown in Taurasi.
.