I mentioned in David Z's 2012 Burgundy tasting how drinking Port is more proper than drinking red Burgundy this time of year, and I am a man of my word. Smith Woodhouse, Vintage Porto, 1997 delivers the goods at 17 years of age. There is plenty of chocolate, fennel, and sweet plum pudding on both the nose and palate, with the impression of fresh cracked fennel seed and carob on the lingering finish. This is made in a lighter, more elegant vein whereby the alcohol rarely, if ever, protrudes. Smooth and ready to drink. Good, if not exceptionally complex. A-
Sitella, Verdelho, Western Australia (Swan Valley), 2013
The color of this wine is barely perceptible, with only the slightest tint of green-yellow at the very edge. A perfumed, herbally nose. Herbal-infused water with perhaps a drop or two of lime essence. Thankfully not as citric as the last Aussie verdelho I had, which tasted like battery acid, but the variety's neutral nature stands forefront. I could see this being really refreshing on a hot day. 13% B+
Pegau, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, 2008
Picture yourself at the Kentucky Derby. Preparing the horses. In the stables. Yes, thoroughbred horses they may be, but they still stink like horses. Yes, this is bretty, as my last 4 have been, but there are some nice gestures remaining, like slow-roasted fruits and sweet liquor. A plummy alcoholic finish ends the wine. Even in a bad year, you can tell it is Pegau: fruit, brett, herbs, and perfumey garrigue, not necessarily in that order. If you have any, I'd be tempted to drink these up instead of holdin' and hopin'. B+
Dirty & Rowdy, Semillon, Yountville, 2012
Rather neutral nose. White grapefruit, Meyer lemon, and cabbage-mercaptan stink on the end in the mouth. Alright for what it is (a skin-ferment white), but remarkably neutral. Still prefer the Aussie way of semillon as I'm not sure the skin-ferment does much for the grape, unlike wineries in NE Italy or NW Croatia who work wonders with their skin-fermented indigenous varieties. I prefer Matthew Rorick's version for now. 11.7% B+
Speaking of Forlorn Hope, the Valdiguie, Napa Valley, Frediani Vineyard, 2012 is rocking stuff. Very floral and slightly spicy with an almost gamay-like feel on the back end. Slightly high toned, I don't think this has the stuffing or structure for long-term cellaring, but this is fun to drink now. 12.52% B+/A-
Clos Marie, Pic Saint Loup, cuvee 'Simon', 2009
Tough and rough, not very attractive or pleasant. Can age help? Boring. I spit you face. 14%
Sandlands, Chenin Blanc, Amador County, 2012
Woody aromas - you can tell this was aged in wood. Oak spice, ripe lemon and chamomile, soft finish, probably not a long keeper. Oak a little too prominent for my tastes, but this is well made. Soft, with a 'watery' feel on the finish. 12.8% B+
Domaine de Montille, Nuits-Saint-Georges, 'Aux Thorey', 2006
Christmas spice cake and red fruited nose. Red fruits, with bright cherry, Santa Rosa plum, candy straws...fine, but firm tannins on the lingering lingonberry finish. Soft and delicate, like moss on a fallen log in the forest. 13%, but alcohol feels more pronounced than that. A- Delicious.
DeForville, Barbaresco, 'Loreto', 2010
With all the 2010 Piedmont hype, I just had to try. This has a floral, burnt quality on the nose. Surprisingly smooth at this young age, but feeling a little disjointed (from recent bottling?) - needs to pull together better. Warm orange creme brulee notes on the finish, along with dusty wood and tannins, which come out with more air. A-/B+