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WTN: 89 Barolos with truffles, plus Champagnes and desserts

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Dale Williams

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WTN: 89 Barolos with truffles, plus Champagnes and desserts

by Dale Williams » Fri Dec 05, 2014 2:53 pm

A very nice group assembled at Ben and Wendy’s lovely G’wich Village apartment for a 1989 Barolo/White Truffle dinner. We were greeted with smoked salmon (Scottish, from Russ and Daughters, as good as I’ve ever had) canapes and a couple of Champagnes
2004 Jacquesson Avize Champ Cain Champagne
This I loved- crisp, minerally, deep, long. A-

2002 Bollinger Grand Annee Champagne
Very well made, just in a larger-framed style than my preference. B/B+

2004 Louis Michel “Grenouilles” Chablis GC
I thought it was just mute from being in ice, but it never got expressive. Some thought it sharp, but I thought moderate acids. It’s white! B-/C+

To table for a great selection of salumi, and the first flight of 1989 Barolo

1989 Domenico Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra
Red fruit, tar, flowers, this surprised me how much I liked. B+/A-

1989 Giovanni Manzone Barolo Le Gramolere
Good, rich, lots of cocoa and espresso, most people’s favorite, but I thought a bit too much glossy oak still. But has lots of time left. B+

1989 Aldo e Riccardo Seghesio Barolo Vigneto la Villa
Flatter, a little pruney note, B-

Ben had made tajarin (egg pasta), served over butter and then the truffle fairies descended with their shavers. A generous portion of truffle, then they returned halfway through to liven it up with more.

1989 Luigi Oddero Barolo Vigna Rionda (magnum)
This is not the Oddero I’m familar with. Very nice showing- full, rich, somewhat tannic still, B+/A-

1989 Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco
Ripe, elegant, overachiever. A-/B+

1989 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc
I thought this oaky and roasted, but there is a good core underneath. B-/B

Third Flight

1989 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato
Just wow. Deep, complex, masculine but not at all heavy. Black cherries, herbs, floral notes. Tangy acids and supporting (but not intrusive) tannins. A great wine that should outlive me. Thanks Ben. A

1989 Prunotto Barolo Cannubi
Tough being against the Monprivato, but this was really a very nice wine. Darker fruits, licorice, floral, nice mouthfeel. B+/A-

Great veal chop with broccoli rabe, and plenty more truffle.

1989 Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Barolo Bricco Rocche
A kind weird coughdrop note, red fruit, a little clipped on finish. B-

1989 Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Barolo Brunate
Black cherry, anise and herbs, good length, medium bodied. I liked more than some. B+/A-

1989 Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Barolo Prapò
This showed well on the palate but Chris called corked right away. I got a little cement note but didn’t think corked, but it really came out with air. Flawed

Final flight

1989 Vietti Barolo Rocche
Red and black fruits, structured, young, I don’t really follow Vietti, maybe I should! A-

1989 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis
A bit plodding, some good fruit but a slight roasted edge, wood apparent though not really obtrusive. B

Lots of varied opinions, but I think Monprivato was unanimous WOTN

I really didn’t need any more wine, but I did try the dessert wines (though I passed on ice cream with truffles)

1989 Frogs Leap Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc
My palate is pretty shot, but this still managed to impress. Apricot, coconut, orange zest, caramel. I didn’t expect this to be this interesting.

1995 Fontodi Vin Santo
No notes, I recall it as good, moderate sweetness, but preferred the SB.

Fun night with a great group. Over the top good food, great variety of wines. Special thanks for David who secured us 300 grams of top notch truffles at a fantastic price.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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Jon Leifer

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Re: WTN: 89 Barolos with truffles, plus Champagnes and desse

by Jon Leifer » Fri Dec 05, 2014 6:06 pm

Wow!, how decadent!. Am green with envy..What a marvelous evening this must have been..Terrific lineup of wines, fine foods and good friends, great combo..
Jon
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Ian A

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Re: WTN: 89 Barolos with truffles, plus Champagnes and desse

by Ian A » Sat Dec 06, 2014 12:12 pm

That's an impressive line up Dale, and must have been magnificent with the truffle. You must have been a happy chappy on the train home. Interesting that the Sandrone was among the also rans.
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Roberto Vigna

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Re: WTN: 89 Barolos with truffles, plus Champagnes and desse

by Roberto Vigna » Sun Dec 07, 2014 7:59 pm

Here is a fine picture of the place your WOTN comes from!
The beautiful arc shaped Monprivato, exposed SO, just below the Castiglione Falletto village.
Picture shot in november 2013 from the heart of La Morra Brunate.
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