WTN: JP Thevenet Morgon VV 2011

Here's the gist on the wine:

Jean-Paul Thévenet Morgon Vieilles Vignes, 2011

With two old vine vineyards (vieilles vignes) situated in granitic soil (one 45; one 110 years old, for an average of 70 years), low yields, organically and biodynamically farmed, fermented in concrete cuvees, held in old oak barrels for mellowing, and bottled without fining or filtration, this is about as “natural” as a wine can get.

The 2011 is intense, full and expansive in the mouth, highly complex, with a blackberry-fruit freshness driven by acidity rather than tannin. There is a surprising and thoroughly engaging hint of gaminess, much like you’d get with a good northern Rhone syrah, with a whiff of black licorice to add even more interest. The absolute intensity of this Morgon is impressive.

For those who might believe gamay is a simple, light grape that makes little more than amusing quaffing wine this Morgon will be a big surprise. Unless you bought only one bottle; then it will be a major regret.

Here's the link to the full article (much longer and more detailed): http://www.examiner.com/article/th-venet-morgon-vieilles-vignes-2011-on-wine-history-and-counter-revolution

[David M. Bueker]

Nice note!

Gee, and I remember who Hoke used to write for us back-in-the-day.

Gee, and I remember who Hoke used to write for us back-in-the-day.

It's still for you, Mark.

Nice note!

Thanks, David.

We were using that---along with a Dupeuble Nouveau 2013 (it was too early for 2014 Nouveau, alas), the Lapierre Raisins Gaulois VdF 2013, a cute little voluntarily down-graded wine that made for some tasty table juice---to illustrate the tastes as we did the Beaujolais chapter of the French Wine Society/French Wine Scholar program.

It was abundantly clear that the Morgon was the class act. Two people went directly from the class to a wine shop, couldn't find the Morgon, and bought a Fleurie (don't know producer), and they said it was okay---but couldn't touch the Morgon.

[David M. Bueker]

Thevenet's Morgon is a delicious wine. I buy it off and on, with then"offs" mostly being due to the fact that I can get Roillette Fleuire Tardive for much less money. I enjoy both wines equally.

Thevenet's Morgon is a delicious wine. I buy it off and on, with then"offs" mostly being due to the fact that I can get Roillette Fleuire Tardive for much less money. I enjoy both wines equally.

Yes, it's widely acknowledged that you are a Roilette slut. (Not a bad thing.)

For the greatest part of my vinous life with Beaujolais, Fleurie was the cru; Moulin-a-Vent and Cote de Brouilly safe backups. Then I found out what was going on in Morgon, and boy did that hit my sweet spot, so that's what I regularly look for.

Funny, although Thevenet has been a constant for years, it is not my favorite of even the Morgon. Desvignes, Foillard, Burgaud; and pretty much anything that says Cote de Py on the label.

...Morgon, and boy did that hit my sweet spot, so that's what I regularly look for.

Funny, although Thevenet has been a constant for years, it is not my favorite of even the Morgon. Desvignes, Foillard, Burgaud...

I came to Beaujolais via Foillard and have always been infatuated with Morgon. I like the Thevenet wines but they're not my top choice either, mainly because of uneven performances over the years. These days Foillard, Descombes and Chamonard top my list (for Morgon and for Beaujolais in general). And Breton Morgon is one of the few available locally so I've been drinking more of that, but it has yet to send me into the same level of rapture.