WTN: A truly enjoyable Bordeaux

"Aux Plantes" 2010
Saint-Emilion Grand Cru
14% abv; 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc

It doesn't say so on the label but this is made my Mr. Cazenave of Château de Bel. This is old school Bordeaux. As explained by their importer Larry Sari of Sari Wines: "Cement tanks. Daily pump overs and "batonage" by hand. Total respect of the vintages and a very solid philosophy. A nice little cellar right in front of the river with old barriques of 600l/800l."

Not being a fan of new wood I especially appreciate the use of larger barrels and older wood. But there is still the problem that I don't like Merlot. It often seems like the Chardonnay of red grapes: ubiquitous and pretty neutral; pleasant enough but lacking personality.

I decanted it for four hours before drinking. It smells pretty ripe, I do sense a little bit of oak aromas but not in worrisome amounts, it's still pretty primary so doesn't show much else than fruit on the nose. But the palate does have wonderful tannins. It's actually quite wonderfully tasty with plenty of ripe fruit, but it is generally savoury in style instead of sweet and sugary. And best of all, it is genuinely moreish and refreshing despite the 14% abv. A slight negative then appears in the form of slight heat from the alcohol on the finish.

But overall I think this is a success. The nose seems so young that I think it needs a few years to become interesting - unless primary fruit is your thing - but the balance of components on the palate was brilliant. So brilliant that the slight negative of slight heat on the finish is easily forgotten. It's been a long time since I've last been even slightly interested in a Bordeaux so this was a welcome reminder that truly enjoyable and interesting wine is made there, too.

Full disclosure: I arranged some Jazz for Mr. Sari and he provided me with wine samples in exchange. So this isn't quite a free sample but is in some grey area and perhaps ought to be mentioned.

Thanks for the TN, Otto. Young Bordeaux like that are rarities. The problem lies in unearthing them . I wonder if there is not an unexploited niche for wine merchants who specialise in good, honest and affordable Bordeaux and avoid the Parkerised/Rollandised goop which has invaded the region, particularly the right bank.

Mention of Rolland brings to mind a French TV programme in which a consulting oenologist, I think working with Rolland, boasted about adjusting the taste of the wines to suit the markets where it was being sold, e.g. sweeter for the UK, oakier for the USA, etc. The implication was that he was doing this with château wines as well as with generic Bordeaux, where it might just be defensible, at least commercially. I was left wondering whether I was more aghast at his cynicism or admiring of his honesty in avoiding a mendacious lather of comments about respect for terroir, etc .

[David M. Bueker]

People in different countries have different tastes in food. Why should a wine be straight jacketed to one specific taste for all the world. If they can add a little more Merlot to the blend for the USA or a little more Cab Franc for France why not? If customers in China prefer 100% new oak! but folks in Poland only want 50% is that really a big deal, or is it just being smart about knowing your customers?

People in different countries have different tastes in food. Why should a wine be straight jacketed to one specific taste for all the world. If they can add a little more Merlot to the blend for the USA or a little more Cab Franc for France why not? If customers in China prefer 100% new oak! but folks in Poland only want 50% is that really a big deal, or is it just being smart about knowing your customers?

David, aside from concerns about excessive manipulation, I have no objection if there is a visibly different cuvée for each different "national" taste profile. What I object to is that ostensibly the same wine tastes markedly different according to where it is purchased.

[David M. Bueker]

People in different countries have different tastes in food. Why should a wine be straight jacketed to one specific taste for all the world. If they can add a little more Merlot to the blend for the USA or a little more Cab Franc for France why not? If customers in China prefer 100% new oak! but folks in Poland only want 50% is that really a big deal, or is it just being smart about knowing your customers?

David, aside from concerns about excessive manipulation, I have no objection if there is a visibly different cuvée for each different "national" taste profile. What I object to is that ostensibly the same wine tastes markedly different according to where it is purchased.

Most products are that way. We just don't hear about it.

People in different countries have different tastes in food. Why should a wine be straight jacketed to one specific taste for all the world. If they can add a little more Merlot to the blend for the USA or a little more Cab Franc for France why not? If customers in China prefer 100% new oak! but folks in Poland only want 50% is that really a big deal, or is it just being smart about knowing your customers?

David, aside from concerns about excessive manipulation, I have no objection if there is a visibly different cuvée for each different "national" taste profile. What I object to is that ostensibly the same wine tastes markedly different according to where it is purchased.

Most products are that way. We just don't hear about it.

OK for soap flakes, industrial ice cream..... but I expect higher standards for St.Émilion grand cru. Don't you?

[David M. Bueker]

Depends on what they are doing. Blend changes? Different oak treatment? Why is it an issue?

Jazz for wine. Good barter and exchange, Otto. Both parties win.

[Jenise]

Depends on what they are doing. Blend changes? Different oak treatment? Why is it an issue?

I find it as alarming as Tim. I don't know what products you'd be referring to, David, but how many of them are rated, compared and discussed all over the world? Do we now need to qualify our Bordeaux TN's with point of purchase?

[David M. Bueker]

You're still buying Bordeaux?

Other than a few under $20 daily drinkers from a specific, known quantity, I have not bought Bordeaux since the 2005 vintage.

I just don't see it as an issue, given that the wines that might be getting that kind of treatment are fruit and oak bombs anyway. What difference does it make if you're getting Skittles or Starburst in your bottle?

I don't care what they do for different clients as long as it's open and both sides agreed on it. But the situation here sounds like it isn't really that open. But perhaps such statements should be taken with a grain of salt: TV programs are often heavily edited (like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07NMglQX6gE)

[David M. Bueker]

A very big grain