It is not often that I come across a wine which shows a really original flavour profile combined with balance and some elegance and it is especially pleasant when that wine is very reasonably priced (EUR 6,98). Here it is.
“ROSSO DI SPICCA” – Rosso Orvietano DOC- 2005 from TENUTA LE VELETTE (85% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo)
Medium weight and lively with good acidity, some flesh and depth and well shaped, even elegant, on the palate showing marked notes of aniseed, tar and Campari with a dash of orange through the dark plum fruit. An unpretentiously delicious and unusual wine.
Frankly I find it hard to believe that the varietal blend is very close to that of Chianti and that it does not contain some less well known indigenous Umbrian grapes. However, Gambero Rosso reports that the estate lies on volcanic soil and this may have something to with the unusual flavour profile which emerges from familiar varieties.
This wine may not be for all tastes (particularly if you do not like aniseed and bitter notes) and I don’t think I would want it every day, but I look forward to it from time to time.
I am impatient to try the more ambitious products from this Orvieto estate, if it can avoid the “prestige” temptation of heavy oaking and over-extraction.