WTN: Two good pairings with game dishes

The second of these, with a sweet sauce, was difficult to pair. The recipe writer recommended continuing with the Muscat de Beaume de Venise used in the cooking but I didn't like the sound of that at all. I considered a rich Spätlese or even an Auslese, but finally hit upon my last bottle of Amarone style Valtellina.

1999 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (10/4/2014)
This was a beautiful CndP at its peak. It was not a blockbuster and showed an unusual Burgundy type elegance. It had medium/full body, velvety texture, smooth acidity, round sweet cherry tinged fruit infused with game and forest floor notes leading to a decently long and firm finish with kirsch hints. It was an ideal pairing for reindeer steak brought back from Finland. Excellent.

1997 Conti Sertoli Salis Sforzato di Valtellina Canua - Italy, Lombardia, Valtellina, Sforzato di Valtellina (10/5/2014)
I'm not a big fan of Amarone from Valpolicella but this wine made by the same technique in Valtellina from Nebbiolo almost convinces me. The grape variety and terroir contribute a backbone and class without which the others tend IMO to cloy quickly, however impressive the first mouthful.

The nose here was well developed with notes of violet and hints of varnish on an underlying liqueur tinged richness. The palate was rich, slightly sweet and quite full but still bright with some attractive primary and well as candied fruit together with tar and herbs and firmness on the finish. I chose it to pair with quail in a sweetish sauce made with grapes and sweet Muscat wine; the pairing worked well as it did with Roquefort cheese which followed. Nevertheless towards the end, like Amarone albeit further into the bottle and after the food, the richness and high alcohol began to pall. Very good in limited quantity and with the right pairing.

Posted from CellarTracker

The Valtellina sounds like a fun wine. Guess you came across it on your travels Tim?

(As a matter of interest when discussing Valtellina , the TRIACCA INFERNO VALTELLINA SUPERIORE is downtown).

Bob, this one was bought after a tasting where the late Cesare Sertoli Salis was presenting his range. He was a very interesting gentleman (the word is deliberately chosen), a count I believe, who owned a magnificent palazzo in Valtellina and had revived the family tradition of wine-making. His premature death in early middle age was a cruel loss. http://www.palazzosalis.com/museo.php/The-Palace.html

Your Inferno downtown sounds like a regular Valtellina bottling without using Amarone methods. They can be austere but a sometimes very fine. I picked up some very good bin-ends of regular 97 & 98 Valtellina also from Sertoli Salis for €5/bottle; one of my best QPR buys .

Thanks for notes, Tim,.
I used to love Clos des Papes but since '03 they seem to be on a different path.
My brother occasionally sends me some quail, this gives me ideas, I have some 1996 Sandro Fay Sforzato di Valtellina that needs a pairing.

Thanks for notes, Tim,.
I used to love Clos des Papes but since '03 they seem to be on a different path.

One word: Cambie

Mark Lipton

p.s. Thanks for the notes, Tim. I've got that '99 Clos des Papes.

[David M. Bueker]

'99 is a drinker's vintage in Chateauneuf du Pape, as opposed to a point collector's vintage.

When you say game dishes I think of 2 distinctly different wines. With feathered game (dove, quail, pheasant, duck, etc.), of all sorts, I have found pinot noir to be the perfect match. With wild game such as venison, and other big game, nebbiolo stands out, particularly Barolo and Barbaresco, properly aged of course. One of our favorite pairings is a seared venison loin with a horseradish sauce and a nice nebbiolo. Just my experience.

Richard, my favorite pairing with venison, especially if it's the gamey sort, is Syrah. I find the flavors of the meat and wine to be complementary and mesh particularly well. For me, Nebbiolo pairs ideally with wild boar, not that we get all that much to test that ideal with (D'Artagnan Wild Boar sausages are my 10-year-old son's favorite food now, eclipsing quail, salmon and duck -- he's in for a big awakening when he eventually leaves the nest )

Mark Lipton