My daughter graduated from law school today. As alum of the school, I was invited to present her with her diploma. I am, as I have always been, immensely proud of her.
So we had a little party:
1995 Clos de la Coulée de Serant, Savennières Moelleux:
Made only twice and then in very small quantities this is 14% alcohol, burnished copper colored chenin blanc; smelling of stones and cooked sugar; tasting like lightly sweetened, very concentrated quince paste and displaying a texture of satin, this is extraordinary juice; acidic with good cut across the entire palate and finish, a depth of flavor that runs a subtle range of flavors that are almost impossible to describe, and, precise balance that at once makes me feel that this is bigger wine than it really is and still makes my mouth water on the finish. Aside from its scarcity, a pretty remarkable bottle. Enjoyed with sushi with wasabi dipping sauce, this was great counter-point. With sheep’s-milk cheese after, very smooth accompaniment. Imported by Paterno Imports and about $60 on release; there is so little of it made that I will never find it again – if I did, I’d buy all I could carry. Thanks Mark.
2002 V. Dauvissat, Chablis:
Closed in the first hour and not especially pleasant; thereafter, quintessential Chablis with that lemon-drop, high tension brightness, good depth and plenty of sustain. Damn good wine that needs a couple years. Imported by Vineyard Brands and about $25; if I could find more at that price, I’d buy alot.
2005 Giacosa, Dolcetto d’Alba:
Fruity, relatively complex wine that is true to its variety and place and displays more than the typical dolcetto. Still, docetto is simply not my thing – too much fruit (I know, that sounds odd but that’s about the best I can do.) Imported by Loscascio and about $17; I’ll not buy it again.
2005 Dom. du Clos du Fief (Michel Tete), Juliénas:
Deep, silken textured juice that is at once bright and broad, delineated and integrated, fat and full of cut and very, very long. As good as the appellation produces in a vintage to remember. Imported by Louis/Dressner and about $18; I have already bought a case and will go back for more.
2004 Giacosa, Barbera d’Alba:
I tasted this recently and can truthfully say it’s the only barbera I ever liked. I had to try it again and it was every bit as good this time as last. I think this could use a couple years in the cellar to be ‘at peak’ but it is quite delicious now. Imported by Locascio and about $24 (I may have quoted a lower price in my first note – I was wrong); I will buy this in quantity.
2001 Edmunds St. John, Los Robles Viejos:
A CdP blend from Paso; at first, both the nose and palate are a bit hard but everything opens up over the course of a meal to reveal the very best in these kind of blends; great flavors and aromas, supple textures, lots of complexity, a fine, long finish and, perhaps its greatest attribute, a simply fabulous food wine. Good now, better later. About $25 and I bought a bunch.
Best, Jim
