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STN: Classic Bijou by a master bartender

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STN: Classic Bijou by a master bartender

by Hoke » Thu Sep 11, 2014 3:47 pm

Stopped in at a favorite bar, Multnomah Whiskey Library, and had a classic Bijou cocktail by a fave bartender, Jordan Felix.

Here's the gist:

Jordan’s Bijou was a straightforward blend of Sacred Gin, Chartreuse, sweet vermouth and a single dash of orange bitters, thoroughly stirred and served up in a delicate thin-walled coupe glass reminiscent of the antique glasses from the late 1800s. Beautiful, translucent golden and gleaming in the gentle curve of the glass, savory and complex, heady and potent and tantalizing with wafting botanicals, the Bijou was spirit-forward---how could it not be, when all the ingredients were spirit-based---seemingly simple but maddeningly complex (the botanical list alone, from the gin, the Chartreuse, the vermouth and the bitters would likely require a page of fine print), focused and powerful.

And so we’ve had another night
of poetry and poses
And each man knows he’ll be alone
when the sacred gin mill closes
Last Call – Dave Van Ronk

Jordan’s choice of Sacred Gin was inspired. Made in London by an artisanal small-batch microdistillery (literally located in the back of a private house), Sacred Gin is made through an expensive process of cold vacuum distillation rather than the standard heat distillation. This involves vacuum, dry ice and liquid nitrogen to extract and refine the alcohol. Both the base neutral spirits and the botanicals are distilled separately, then blended. The result is an extremely aromatic expression on a crisp and clean alcohol base. Sacred Gin lists their botanicals as the obligatory juniper, fresh orange, lemon and lime peel, cardamom, and the unusual Biblically-cited Frankincense, an aromatic resin collected from Arabian and African bushes and still used today in perfumes and oils. It married perfectly with the Chartreuse botanicals, harmonized with the slightly sweet and pungent vermouth, and was bound together by the addition of the dash of orange bitters.

Bijous may be adorned with a cherry or citrus peel, or even, I have heard, an olive; however, Jordan simply squeezed the oil from a lemon peel, rubbed it around the rim of the glass, and then discarded it, leaving the drink, clear and shimmering, for no garnish was needed to adorn this triple-jewel of a cocktail.


And here's the full thing: http://www.examiner.com/article/portland-bar-scene-classic-bijou-at-the-multnomah-whiskey-library
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Fredrik L

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Re: STN: Classic Bijou by a master bartender

by Fredrik L » Fri Sep 12, 2014 3:15 am

A master bartender... The stuff that dreams are made of! I am afraid draught beer has taken the place of drinks and cocktails in Sweden. I went to a two-star place and ordered a Margarita and they made it from a mix. :evil:
I went to another place, (a nice hotel lobby, normally the best place to find decent bartending), late one night and asked for a good night-cap. What did the youngish bartender suggest? "Well, I suppose a Gin and Tonic is always nice"! :twisted:

Greetings from Sweden / Fredrik L
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Re: STN: Classic Bijou by a master bartender

by Hoke » Fri Sep 12, 2014 1:11 pm

Fredrik L wrote:A master bartender... The stuff that dreams are made of! I am afraid draught beer has taken the place of drinks and cocktails in Sweden. I went to a two-star place and ordered a Margarita and they made it from a mix. :evil:
I went to another place, (a nice hotel lobby, normally the best place to find decent bartending), late one night and asked for a good night-cap. What did the youngish bartender suggest? "Well, I suppose a Gin and Tonic is always nice"! :twisted:

Greetings from Sweden / Fredrik L


Oh noes! You're crushing my dream of Continental sophistication, Fredrik. :lol:

When I was in Cognac this last July, hanging out with a great bartender, Phil Duffy from London, he informed me that London proper was the epicenter of worldwide cocktail development----but that if you got three or four miles away from the center, it was a wasteland, with the very same conditions you just outlined. :lol:

It's really similar here in Oregon. Portland is amazing---ranks up there with much larger cities in this regard. But get outside that epicenter, even into the suburbs, and god forbid into the far reaches of the state, and it drops of immediately and precipitously.
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Re: STN: Classic Bijou by a master bartender

by JC (NC) » Fri Sep 12, 2014 4:59 pm

Once again I asked in a hotel lounge in a large city (the Tropicana in Las Vegas, now a Doubletree holding) if they had rye whiskey for a Manhattan. The answer was no, so I had a different cocktail. I did have a Manhattan at Picasso in Bellagio Hotel.
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Re: STN: Classic Bijou by a master bartender

by Hoke » Fri Sep 12, 2014 5:06 pm

JC (NC) wrote:Once again I asked in a hotel lounge in a large city (the Tropicana in Las Vegas, now a Doubletree holding) if they had rye whiskey for a Manhattan. The answer was no, so I had a different cocktail. I did have a Manhattan at Picasso in Bellagio Hotel.


Ah, Vegas!

Bills itself as the partying town, but puts most of it up as a plastic facade of sophistication, simultaneously parading the best and the worst of cocktail culture. Vegas has a couple of great bars---well, maybe I'd stretch it to "a few", but it also has some of the worst bars in the country---and some of the worst bartenders (but that's because of shit-poor management and don't-care front offices who are willing to default to the lowest common denominator if it is sufficiently dressed up with a little sprinkle of gilt dust. A place where you don't have to BE good; you just have to LOOK good. And you don't have to care about anything.
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Re: STN: Classic Bijou by a master bartender

by wnissen » Sat Sep 13, 2014 7:22 pm

I didn't know the Bijou was pre-prohibition, but it makes sense. I had a lovely one at Blackbird in San Francisco. It's listed on the menu as Gin, Genepy, Petal and Thorn, Gran Classico. It was barrel aged, which is everywhere now, but honestly I couldn't detect any oak influence. Still, if you're ever at Zuni Cafe or the Orpheum theater, it's well-worth a stroll down the semi-sketchy mid-Market area for an apéritif, as they're very reasonably priced. Cocktails made with care for $10 or less in a few cases.
Walter Nissen
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Re: STN: Classic Bijou by a master bartender

by Hoke » Sat Sep 13, 2014 8:30 pm

Thanks, Walt.

Re barrel aged cocktails: sometimes it's more the oxidative aging that registers more than oak a lot depends on the barrel.
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Re: STN: Classic Bijou by a master bartender

by Hoke » Sun Sep 14, 2014 1:10 pm

And Walt: I can see that Blackbird Bijou variation working pretty well.

Genepy is sort of a local junior-grade and slightly more absinthe/anise Chartreuse (it's from the same area and has many of the same mountain slope herbs); Petal and Thorn is really, really nice---sort of like a Lillet Rose; and Gran Classico is great stuff indeed---if they didn't use too much of it, because it's pretty intense. I suspect I would like this cocktail.

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