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WTN: Gononathon at Riverpark (w/Rougeard!)

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Dale Williams

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WTN: Gononathon at Riverpark (w/Rougeard!)

by Dale Williams » Wed Jul 02, 2014 12:03 pm

A nice group gathered last night at Riverpark for a Gononathon (with a few others wines as well). I watched the US-Belgium game on phone on way down on train, then caught some of extended time with crowds outside bars as I walked to Riverpark. Oh well, good run. Got to restaurant and was greeted with the 2009 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey “Vide Bourse” Chassagne-Montrachet 1er. Good acids for 2009, plenty of rich pear and tropical fruit, but big overlay of oak and a bit’o’brimstone. I liked, but needs air or time (Suzanne then had it decanted to revisit with cheese, but I didn’t retaste). B/B- for now, much upside potential

We started with some bar food (fried chicken and paeilla balls), then Ross and I shared a
whole roasted guinea fowl, with morels, chanterelles, oyster mushrooms, gnocchi, and braised lambsquarters. Quite good.

On to the Rhone ( and eventually Loire)

2012 Gonon Iles de Feray
Red-fruited, bright, a little bacon, easy drinking. B/B+

2012 Gonon St. Joseph
Smoky, meaty, structured, great potential if a bit dense now. B+/A-

2012 Vallin Syrah Sans Soufre (Santa Ynez)
Fruity, fresh, floral, lots of that no-sulphur grapiness, changes with air to a tart cranberry that I wouldn’t recognize as Syrah, very interesting. B

2011 Gonon Iles de Feray
Bright acids, red fruits, pepper. B/B+

2011 Gonon St. Joseph
Herbs and olives, structured, full, ripe. B+

2010 Gonon St. Joseph
Ripe, blackberries, fairly expressive at first then seems to tighten up sharply. Give time or air. B+

2010 Faury St. Joseph
Peppery, black fruits, a big note of garrigue/mountain brush that I quite liked, quite different from the Gonon but equally enjoyable. B+/A-

2008 Gonon St. Joseph
Soft, a light stewy note, a bit clipped, suspected of possibly seeing a bit of heat.

2007 Gonon St. Joseph
Complex, full, long, edges the Faury for my Syrah of the night. A-

2005 Gonon St. Joseph
This was different. I immediately thought it showed Cabernet notes, and then Faryan said was Bordeaux-like. Cassis and tobacco, a tad subdued. Some thought corked, I never found the TCA (though I had tail end of a cold, so maybe). B?

2003 Clos Rougeard “Les Poyeux” Saumur-Champigny
Ripe and rich but without excess 2003ness, complete, delicious, plenty left here. A-

2000 Clos Rougeard “Les Poyeux” Saumur-Champigny
I think table preference was for the 2003, but this really did it for me in a more lithe frame- elegant, complex, delicious. Pretty ready to go. A-

Fun night, good people,

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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Diane (Long Island)

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Re: WTN: Gononathon at Riverpark (w/Rougeard!)

by Diane (Long Island) » Wed Jul 02, 2014 3:41 pm

Dale - was the 2009 Gonon intentionally omitted from the lineup? I was thinking of bringing one to dinner in a couple of weeks. Faury takes a backseat to Gonon, but I like them both.
Diane
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Michael Malinoski

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Re: WTN: Gononathon at Riverpark (w/Rougeard!)

by Michael Malinoski » Wed Jul 02, 2014 3:47 pm

A producer I really need to get up to speed on, thanks for the primer!

Love that 2003 Clos Rougeard, by the way, and totally agree with your sentiments on it. Thanks again,

Michael
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: Gononathon at Riverpark (w/Rougeard!)

by Dale Williams » Thu Jul 03, 2014 12:16 pm

Diane,
I don't think anything intentional about missing 09, just based on what people had, and we had some cancellations

Michael,
you should definitely try Gonon. Prices are going up, but still a relative QPR for northern Rhone

I also tried an 89 Lynch Bages from a friend at neighboring table- seemed soft and muted, not what I think of as 89 LB, but didn't seem corked. Strange

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