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WTN: Rochioli PN, Clos Rene, Lynch Bages, Duhart Milon, Fieuzel

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OW Holmes

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WTN: Rochioli PN, Clos Rene, Lynch Bages, Duhart Milon, Fieuzel

by OW Holmes » Tue Dec 12, 2006 12:46 pm

A couple friends and I got together last night over some hors d'oeurves and wine. The situs was a local club, which permitted us to bring in our own wine for a small corkage fee. We each brought two bottles, intending the second as a backup in case of a corked or otherwise bad bottle, but it didn't work out that way. The tasting went through all six bottles, every last drop, over the space of 4 1/2 hours. I guess we dumped a little, and shared some with the wait staff, but we drank most of it. Fun.

Rochioli Pinot Noir 2002. A former supplier of great juice to some of the best wineries in the Russian River area, Rochioli started making its own wine a few years ago, to rave reviews. This is not your overblown California pinot, and is more akin to Oregon models. Sweet red fruits initially dominated the nose, gradually picking up some leather and black dirt. Very good acid balance on a light to medium frame, and while it initially seemed a tad hot, that disappeared with food. Very good, but made to look a bit simple in its youth by some of the bordeaux wines sharing the table.

Chateau Clos Rene, Pomerol, Bordeaux 1998. Opened and consumed on the spot. Large nose that seemed quite mature for the vintage, with black fruit, tar, barnyard, and tobacco. The palate failed to deliver what the nose promised. Initially mouthfilling it ended very quickly with a short aftertaste. It seemed to pick up a little length and depth as the evening went on, but was probably our most disappointing bottle.

Chateau de Fieuzel Rouge, Pessac Leognan, Bordeaux, 1995. This Graves, which Jack had opened an hour and a half before we met, opened with red fruits backed by substantial minerality. Over the four hours, it displayed the leather and mushroom we had expected. Medium bodied, good acidity, elegant stuff, this. Very impressive.

Chateau Duhart Milon, Pauillac, Bordeaux, 1990. Opened 5 hours before we met, and recorked two hours before, this fourth growth from the Lafite stable started with a strong nose and just got stronger over the next four hours, with the classic pauillac elements: currant, cedar, and lead pencil. Very smooth mouthfeel and fully integrated tannins, and great depth of flavor. It touched every corner of the mouth and tongue. Good long aftertaste. This showed very well tonight. Excellent.

Chateau Lynch Bages, Pauillac, Bordeaux, 1995. Opened an hour and a half ahead of time, this great fifth growth was still quite tight and primary, showing dark fruit, black raspberry and black currant. There was great depth to the wine, and perfect balance.. Vicious swirling released a hint of the underlying cedar shavings and cigar box, but the best of this wine is yet to come. Still quite tannic, but would be super with a big fat steak.

Stony Hill Semillon de Soliel, 2004 Served right out of the refrigerator, we probably started this a bit too cold, but as it warmed up it began to show honey and caramel flavors with a touch of orange rind. No diesel, however. Bob thought it a bit low on acid, but it was an excellent way to end the tasting.

In our wine induced euphoria, we of course decided to expand on the idea next year, same time, same place, with each inviting someone deemed "bottle worthy." I'm not sure what that means exactly, but it sounded good at the time.
Last edited by OW Holmes on Wed Dec 13, 2006 2:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-OW
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wrcstl

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Re: Holiday winos

by wrcstl » Tue Dec 12, 2006 3:58 pm

OW Holmes wrote:A couple friends and I got together last night over some hors d'oeurves and wine. The situs was a local club, which permitted us to bring in our own wine for a small corkage fee. We each brought two bottles, intending the second as a backup in case of a corked or otherwise bad bottle, but it didn't work out that way. The tasting went through all six bottles, every last drop, over the space of 4 1/2 hours. I guess we dumped a little, and shared some with the wait staff, but we drank most of it. Fun.

Rochioli Pinot Noir 2002. A former supplier of great juice to some of the best wineries in the Russian River area, Rochioli started making its own wine a few years ago, to rave reviews. This is not your overblown California pinot, and is more akin to Oregon models. Sweet red fruits initially dominated the nose, gradually picking up some leather and black dirt. Very good acid balance on a light to medium frame, and while it initially seemed a tad hot, that disappeared with food. Very good, but made to look a bit simple in its youth by some of the bordeaux wines sharing the table.


OW,
Did you really think all the bottles would not be opened? The "maybe corked" excuse is what I tell my wife when we head out to dinner with like minded wine friends but they always, all get opened.

Interested in the '02 Rochioli. I gave up my Rochioli mailing list because I was getting too much west coast stuff. I always felt that since they were the farmers and owned the vines that they should make the best wines. Found that I like WS and Dehlinger better. I still have some '00 and '01 PN from Rochioli. Do you think I made a mistake? Was the '02 still too young? Have you had any experience with their '00 or '01?

Appreciate the comments on '95 Bordeaux. I find this to be a difficult vintage and am almost ready to forget about it for another 5 years. Everything I try seems way too tight and unyielding.
Walt
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OW Holmes

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Re: Holiday winos

by OW Holmes » Tue Dec 12, 2006 4:13 pm

Walt, I have no experience with Rochioli, but I don't think you made a mistake. This was pleasant, a decent quaff, but really quite simple and a little hot. Way overpriced, IMHO.
I was glad that one of the others brought the '95s. Mine are still laying horozontal in 62 degrees and, thanks to this tasting, will remain so for a few more years. It's funny, though, because I read a report a few days ago that said that some 95s were open and ready, and the Lynch Bages was on that list. Nope.
-OW
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Charley Hood

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Thanks for the notes, OW.

by Charley Hood » Thu Dec 14, 2006 9:04 pm

It sounds like you guys had a nice evening.

Best holiday wishes to you and Beth from the Hoods.

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